ANOTHER gearbox oil question

[(F5)]

Sorry, I've lost track of what we are trying to achieve?

So you live on a farm and are trying to avoid a trip into the big smoke in case Sheriff Rossco P Coleraine busts you for runnin Moonshine? So what can I find in the big ole barn out back?

Dude. If it drags you will be having to buy something else, so cheap twice or more will get expensive quick.

[SS109]

Originally Posted by dode

It does specify weight as 10w30 on the label.
API says GL-4 which supersedes the ?SF? stared in my owners manual unless I am wrong and someone correct me please.
My manual says nothing about JASO specs so this might be something I need to look at.
Thanks for your advice and input.

Man, I totally missed the 10w30 on the label. Damn old man brain and eyes!

Honestly, you'll probably be fine using it.

[5valve]

Which oil? Brand doesn't matter. Gradation 10w 30 or 10w 40. Even 75W80 or single grade 30 or 40 or 80 or 85. Synthetic, partial or mineral..does not matter.
Once you feel oil doesn't perform anymore, replace it. 5-15 hrs, depending on abuse. There is no risk factor if you use any of the prescribed range oil.
Prolonging worn oil use, a lot of risk.
ATF is ok, if a bit abrupt clutch actuation in nasty stuff doesn't bother you. It bothers me.

The most important thing nobody mentions is the JASO MA standard. Gear/clutch oil has to be either JASO MA1 or MA2.

To decipher the JASO standard, a lot data available online. It is about measured feel of the clutch.
Once you try to take off in steep, mixed terrain, with utmost concern of grip modulation and every movement in clutch lever can be precisely transferred to rear...this is where JASO matters.

For general allround riding, commuting, open trailing where clutch is used rarely, even automotive oil, non energy conserving, can be used.

Currently I'm using jaso ma2..manufacturer does not matter, as branding is for eyes...and it modulates quite nicely in tight.

Next, will try ma1 for comparison.