2000 EC 200 Service Manual

[singletrackpnw]

Hello, I recently purchased a 2000 EC 200 that needed some work. The clutch is hardly working, the carb needs to be gone through, and the expansion chamber is bent so it doesn't seal. Needless to say I would like to have a service manual. I have tried finding this info online, but I have not found anything for my year range. Also all the older posts on the forum that had links to websites no longer work. Any help would be appreciated.

Also seems like aftermarket parts are a little scarce too. Been trying to find a gnarly fmf, but its all out of stock. And Ebay's prices are ridiculous.

-Josh

[SS109]

IIRC there isn't a service manual specifically for those years of bikes. Most use the basic EC 2 Stroke Worskshop Manual which can be found here: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/38...00.html#manual

[(F5)]

I had an 02 200. What a cracking bike he says with rose tinted (2 beers) glasses.

PWK carb will likely benefit from a good blow through and new Float jet. Fortunately these are the same for many PWK Japanese bikes.

Check the needle jet is not ovalised with strong light and magnification. Must be absolutely round.

Then check needle. Std needle makes then run crappy. They can be smooth throughout the throttle and rev range. If it feels like it clears out and then takes off, you can improve it immensely.

I had an LTR needle but Check jetting threads here.

Muffler will need a burn out and repack most likely. I had to replace the perforated core as it was pretty thin. I just found heaps with a Google search so easily available.

[singletrackpnw]

Originally Posted by SS109

IIRC there isn't a service manual specifically for those years of bikes. Most use the basic EC 2 Stroke Worskshop Manual which can be found here: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/38...00.html#manual

Thank you! I was not sure if this was accurate to my year. But if that's what everyone uses, it must be close enough.

F5, I have little to no experience with jetting. I have been trying to decide if i want to try out a Lectron. Although I don't like how much they cost, ive heard they work pretty flawlessly. Have you ever tried one? I have read a lot of forum posts, and it seems like everyone has a different opinion.

[Anders]

Although I'm not F5, I have used a Lectron in my 200. First on a '06, now on my '15. The same carb. It has now done approx 450-500 hours.
Works flawlessly. Good mileage. I really like it.

Sent fra min YAL-L21 via Tapatalk

[(F5)]

A lot of money to invest in an old bike. If the original carb is in good order they can perform really well . There's heaps of jetting threads on this forum. Most will be for 250 and 300, but 200 will be there too.

Clutch is next yeah? When you say hardly works. Do you mean it drags real bad?

On an old bike it is worth popping the side off and inspecting the basket and hub, plus check condition of plates thickness of fibres and flatness of steels..

The hydraulic should be flushed with new fluid. The cap will either say DOT5 brake fluid or Mineral oil. Don't use wrong type. A rebuild may be in order but they do last a long time.

My hub and basket were quite grooved. I should have replaced them but I spent an age with file and dremel reducing the grooves. After that I could kick start it in gear.

Sensitive to the right gear oil. Motul Transoil Expert worked as above. Motul Transoil Standard dragged.

[singletrackpnw]

The purchase of a Lectron is currently determined by how much I can sell my old bike for. IF I can make enough on it to pay for the Lectron I think I would. After the other repairs and purchase cost of the new to me EC200.

Ive been able to bend the pipe back to where I think it will seal and reach all the mounting bolts. I will probably try to heat up and pop out some of the dents. I contacted FMF and they said it will be atleast a few months before they have another pipe in stock.

I got froggy and decided to disassemble the spare muffler that was off the bike. It was the only one that was USFS approved, but was caked with hard buildup. and I doubt I could have gotten new packing in. Drilled the pop rivets, and only dinged up the actual spark arrestor "a little" while taking it apart.

Burned all the old gunk out, now I just have to do a little more bending to get it back together.

F5, yes it drags real bad. Sometimes It will die just with it in gear and the clutch pulled in. It idles and runs strong. So I'm pretty sure that's the culprit. Ill have to do like you said and pull the clutch basket and check it out.