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Enduro Engine - 2 stroke Cylinder, Piston, Tranny, Bearings, Clutch, Pipes & Silencers, etc.


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Old 09-06-2012, 03:34 AM
BryanMcc BryanMcc is offline
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Default midrange bog, not jetting related

here is what the problem is. every ride at some point my bike will act up in a big way. here is what i have noticed so far. problem is very intermittant.
1) big load on engine (long uphill sections) make the bog worse, sometimes to the point it wont clear out. mainly on an upshift where i come off the pipe slightly.
2) long straightaways with sustained upper throttle the bike will bog again midrange once i letoff and come back on the throttle.
3) stopping and shutting the bike off makes it go away for a minute, at least untill i get on the throttle again and let off then get back on it. ( runs fine through the gears for the first time its after i let off the throttle and go to get back on it)
4) when the bike rattles ( i think power valve rattle) there will be no bog, once the rattleing quiets down it will with out a doubt bog.
5)the mapping switch in rain mode makes it much worse
6)jetting is as follows and plug chops look great (only doing plug chops with the bike running normally. 165-168 main, JD red in number 2, 40 pilot, a/s 1 and 3/4 out, 4 to 7k feet and 60 to 90 degrees
7) when the bike starts acting up the exhaust note chages and it seems like there is alot of noise in the expansion chamber. very distict change

my thoughts were a gummed up power valve, but i yanked it out tonight and there was only a little carbon built up. right now i have transmission side cover off. how do i make sure i don t have a ball for the PV controller dislodged? im going to check preload on the PV spring and button it back up, also make sure the rod isnt binding or catching anywhere. anything else i should check while im in there? i only want to buy gaskets once LOL. I have a race coming up oct seventh and would rather race my gas gas instead of the husky because the mikuni carb in the husky is a turd to jet. Thanks for the help! GG rider rules, so much knowlege on here!


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Old 09-06-2012, 08:06 AM
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Jakobi Jakobi is offline
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Hmmm.. Hmmm hmmm.. I feel like I've read these symptoms before..

Double triple check that crud is not in the tank making its way into the carb. Put a filter between the two. Doubt its this but its good practice.

Check the breathers and check valves for the carb and the fuel tank.

Power valve. The drums that run in the cylinder can get a small carbon build up and cause sticking. It doesn't take much. To test remove the actuator arm from the powervalve and the allen bolt that stops the plate rotating too far. You should then be able to cycle the valve 360 degress both forward and backwards smoothly. If it jags forward to back you have your issue. Also check the side play and see how this affects the rotation of the pv.

Electrically, I know nothing about electrics but spark plugs, plug cap, coil. The map switch making a difference makes my ears prick up to this.
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Old 09-06-2012, 08:58 AM
desertgasser300 desertgasser300 is offline
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X2 on the PV sticking. Had the same sysmptoms you are describing on my 97'. I went right for the PV and sure enough it was sticking. Pulled it out and and scrapped all the carbon off and then wire brushed it....BINGO bikes runs great again!
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Old 09-06-2012, 09:03 AM
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It does sound PV related to me. A simple diagnosis before disassembly would have been removing the right side PV cover and observing the PV operation through the RPM range. Now that it is apart this impossible.

Verify that the cylinder components move smoothly and easily. The PV should close under the weight of the flapper if everything is clean and carbon free.

If a ball were dislodged it would prevent the PV governer from returning to the "home" position, and the PV would be stuck open somewhat at lower RPM. Balls become dislodged from manually moving the governer with the engine off (by pulling on the rod), causing them to fall out of their ramps. Lay the bike on its side or remove the governer to check. You can sometimes reseat the balls with a pick if neccessary without disassembling the governer.

It would not hurt to go through all your connections especially the coil HV wire, although I doubt its the cause of this. The rain mode delays advance so it makes a problem situation worse.

Rest of plan is good.
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Old 09-06-2012, 10:17 AM
BryanMcc BryanMcc is offline
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there was some carbon build up on the drums, ill clean them and reinstall tonight. Ill double triple check the carb vents, but i was king of doubting that due to the issue being related to the amount of rattle and the change of exhaust tone. Ill also add a small inline filter in the fuel line.. power valve did feel smooth in its operation before it came apart. If a ball was dislodged wouldnt it run funny ALL the time? the part that confuses the hell out of me is if i shut the bike all the way down it behaves untill im on the throttle hard again and back off. The bog is so bad a 1 to 2 shift of a hill will actually slow me down until i shift back to first, will not get on the pipe. Thanks for the help!
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Old 09-06-2012, 11:35 AM
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i have had a pv governor issue with the dislodging. when it happened to me, i had no top end, no rev out, bike will just putt around. it will not rev up at all. maybe 3000-4000rpm max..
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Old 09-06-2012, 12:20 PM
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Thats because the ball left the ramp and did not contribute to the inertia of moving the governer, but they can also jam the system from closing.

BryanMCC,

It makes sense to me, its sticking open after being opened hard. Maybe that governer and the bellcrank should come apart and be inspected for anything that would cause it to stick, like a burr. Your in there now anyway.

Whats the history here? New/used bike? Recent work, etc.?
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Old 09-06-2012, 04:48 PM
wasp4banger wasp4banger is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BryanMcc View Post
there was some carbon build up on the drums, ill clean them and reinstall tonight. Ill double triple check the carb vents, but i was king of doubting that due to the issue being related to the amount of rattle and the change of exhaust tone. Ill also add a small inline filter in the fuel line.. power valve did feel smooth in its operation before it came apart. If a ball was dislodged wouldnt it run funny ALL the time? the part that confuses the hell out of me is if i shut the bike all the way down it behaves untill im on the throttle hard again and back off. The bog is so bad a 1 to 2 shift of a hill will actually slow me down until i shift back to first, will not get on the pipe. Thanks for the help!
You checked the float level in the carb?
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Old 09-06-2012, 05:15 PM
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I had my powervalve stick wide open. The bike was gutless and the exhaust tone was so bad I thought I had seriously damaged something. I didn't rev it hard enough to see if it'd get the one pipe it sounded so bad!

As Glenn said an easy test is to run the bike on the stand with the RHS pv cover off and see if it moves as it should.
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Old 09-06-2012, 08:21 PM
BryanMcc BryanMcc is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wasp4banger View Post
You checked the float level in the carb?
yes float level checked and adjusted, looks good
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