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#1
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For the engineers, moly paste, moly grease and waterproof grease
G'day
Purely academic this... Was talking to a friend whom is a mechanical superintendent on tunnelling projects and a bike rider, regards what to use on a bikes needle roller bearings and caged steering stem bearings, he suggested they would not have the load for moly grease, and that aluminium based waterproof grease ( eg belray) would be better as it gave the rollers a chance to roll and would not flat spot, moly paste would work the same but not be as waterproof. He said the white lithium grease from the factory would be fine but need servicing soon as it absorbs water instead of repelling it just like soap, because it is soap. He said stop over thinking things and just make sure it's got grease full stop and check once a year or when it's been quite wet. Anyone agree?
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Oz Current. 2015 ec300r estart, 98 RM 125 2013 Ec300r 2011 Ec300e 2009 Husky TE310 1982 XR500 Honda 1981 KE100 Kawasaki 1978 GT80 Yamaha |
#2
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The moly paste I use is definately waterproof. It's designed for marine use. It also sticks to the steel rollers well. I've had excellent results with it, especially in the lower needle bearing of the GG shocks, a highly loaded part.
Another favorite is Castrol Pyroplex Blue. A waterproof, high load grease for heavy equipment. This stuff is super sticky and holds up great. If it gets wet it thickens up even more. First choice for steering heads that are probably the most prone to water intrusion. I use it in the linkage as well and it's good for a year easy. I find Belray just average, and not especially waterproof. With a good set of orings in the linkage, water should not be an issue and it would be OK, but if it does get in one of these speciality greases make a difference. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD |
#3
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Thanks Glen, I can get castrol over here so I'll do that.
Cheers Interestingly, on those big projects my mate works on, they buy the heavy equipment with a buy back agreement, they have to follow a maintenance regime but it doesn't matter what condition the unit is in at the end, as long as they have followed the regime and if it stops working they call the manufacturer and they say what has to be done, the gear is generally r$$ted when the project is over and a lot of site managers have got rich buying ( for nothing from the manfacturer) and repairing gear at the end of the project and leasing to second tier contractors......big business.
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Oz Current. 2015 ec300r estart, 98 RM 125 2013 Ec300r 2011 Ec300e 2009 Husky TE310 1982 XR500 Honda 1981 KE100 Kawasaki 1978 GT80 Yamaha |
#4
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I use the same Jetlube moly as Glenn and can say that way outperforms the Belray waterproof grease.
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2004 GasGas DE250 |
#5
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Other good apps for this grease are the the pin/cup interface of the clutch master cyl., and the pins of an oring chain masterlink when it is assembled.
Also, some guys bother to disasemble wheel bearings and regrease in an attempt to prolong life. I prefer to just pack the area between the seal and bearing with the Pyroplex, forming a water and dirt proof barrier should a seal fail. Just wipe out and repack during a wheel service removal. I have an '07 with all original wheel bearings. |
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