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Enduro Engine - 2 stroke Cylinder, Piston, Tranny, Bearings, Clutch, Pipes & Silencers, etc.


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  #111  
Old 01-15-2018, 03:24 AM
braaaplifejonesing braaaplifejonesing is offline
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[QUOTE=RockefellerGG;165501]Here we go! Time to split the cases:


Clutch Disassembly

Start by removing the clutch spring bolts, the springs and spacer:


Slide out the clutch press plate, the friction discs and steels:


Drive down the safety washer using a hammer and screwdriver or punch:


Remove the clutch hub nut. This is pretty easy with an impact wrench, but you'll need to hold the clutch hub. It can be done with a standard ratchet set, but will take some patience.

Ok this is proving to be difficult for me as I'm using a hand wrench. any tricks to getting this hub nut off? its regular thread right? How do I hold the hub boss it seems so easy to damage? Im only trying to remove the kicker shaft to replace it. can it be done without taking out the clutch? Didn't seem as though its possible.
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  #112  
Old 01-15-2018, 03:39 AM
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Jakobi Jakobi is offline
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Lefty loosey. Should be around 70Nm on it from memory. Easiest way is to give it a couple ugga duggas with with impact (electric or air).

Otherwise there are basket holding tools you can use but as you've stated the basket is quite soft. You could also try applying some downward pressure onto the plates themselves. That may add enough friction to hold everything in place while you (or someone else) cracks the nut undone.
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  #113  
Old 08-01-2018, 06:10 PM
Desert Silver Desert Silver is offline
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The flywheel that's mentioned when you removed the crank gear. Is that what GG called the counter balancer?
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  #114  
Old 08-01-2018, 07:42 PM
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Zman Zman is offline
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The 1998 EC250 bikes had a separate counterbalance shaft which is different.
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  #115  
Old 02-01-2019, 08:04 AM
5valve 5valve is offline
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Is it a known fact that GG uses rotational specific viton seals on crankshaft, ones with grooves, or are they plain viton only.
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  #116  
Old 02-01-2019, 06:00 PM
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I think it is a generic dual lip viton seal.
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  #117  
Old 08-08-2019, 07:22 AM
Jim_C Jim_C is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RockefellerGG View Post
I sent a list of replacement parts and work needing to be done to Hall's Cycles in Springfield, IL. I've had good luck with them in the past and they will continue to get my business. The packaging all says gofasters on them... so I guess they all came through the dealer network. I bet I could have sourced all the parts individually, for less, but it was nice to send them a box of beat up parts and have a box containing all the good stuff in one shot:

Crank Bearings:
WORL: NJ206 EM C4 ME250112013 $42.99
KOYO: 63/28C4 ME20912006 $74.99

Crank Seals:
ME250112009 $24.50
ME250112008 $34.99

Complete Gasket Set: ME250544100 $134.99
Kick start seal: ME25632021 $12.99
Water pump Seal: ME25610011 $29.99
Selector Seal: ME120136048 $3.25
Primary C/S Seal: ME25636024 $13.50
2 Primary C/S O-rings ME25632025 $9.98

Piston: $189
Connecting Rod Kit: 09230125 $106.99

Rebuild and Labor:

Rebuild the crankshaft and balance: $98
Clean up the damage to the head: $35.00

Re-plating the cylinder: $250
Hall's sent this out to a shop called Millenium. It looks fantastic. Pics to come soon.
I just split my case last night. 2012 EC250R. The crank bearings are rubber sealed. I don't know why the factory did this. There are oil galleys for pre-mix into the case. Why a rubber sealed crank bearing from the factory has me puzzeled.
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  #118  
Old 08-08-2019, 07:37 AM
5valve 5valve is offline
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To protect them from lubrication.
If you look at bearing code description, it uses its own lubrication. It was environmental joke, so you could use less % premix.
Just pull the seals out on new bearings.
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