2011 GG 300 SD squish, comp, and jetting data

[Sixdays]

I have been reading about the GG and how for off the squish #s are form the factory. So I checked mine today. Maybe we could collect info on what squish, compression, and jetting.

Ok my bike runs fantastic with none of the issues I have read about. Just as a side note I did have a 2011 ktm 300 before this bike. This GG has more low end grunt than the ktm and about the same top end.

elevation 5000 ft
Squish .078
compression 170 psi cold and dry (no oil)
carb old style 38 mm
main 165
needle stock in stock position
pilot stock
air screw 2 turns
slide #7

[Jakobi]

Is that a typo?? .078 inches = 1.9812 millimetres which sounds around right. The magic number is around 1.2-1.3mm.

Also when you mention older style what do you mean? The pastic screw cap on top? or the metal cap retained with 2 screws? The later being newer.

[Sixdays]

Yes that was a typo.

The carb is the early style screw down top. It has the 2 screws not allens. The other 300 at the dealer had the allens.

[Bailey28]

I'm interested in this squish thing. I will wait until I pull the top end apart for sevice then send in the head to Ron. I could use some more bottom end snap, but I don't want a huge MX hit or anything.

Jakobi, I just got my N3EH and NOZH in the mail today!

[AZRickD]

If your stock squish is 1.98 (as was mine on my 2005 DE250), then having RB take it down to 1.2-ish as mine was will really, really, bring out the beast right where you want it.

[Jakobi]

Originally Posted by Sixdays

Yes that was a typo.

The carb is the early style screw down top. It has the 2 screws not allens. The other 300 at the dealer had the allens.

Screws (phillips head) or allen keys are the same internally. The older model Air strikers have no metal cap at all. A round threaded plastic cap only.

[Jakobi]

Originally Posted by Bailey28

I'm interested in this squish thing. I will wait until I pull the top end apart for sevice then send in the head to Ron. I could use some more bottom end snap, but I don't want a huge MX hit or anything.

Jakobi, I just got my N3EH and NOZH in the mail today!

Betting you'll love the NOZH! its more of a linear rip than the N3 range.

I'm in discussion with a local shop, a specialist, and a bike store trying to determine if its better to go with the head mod or an S3. Only real advantage to S3 is that I can always return back to stock. Probably won't get the squish down to 1.2/1.3mm with it (but definately wont know until I measure the current head). Might have to pull it down on days off and see what I have. Decide if which way to go, and then leave the bike until I do the top end.

[AZRickD]

How much is the S3?

[Jakobi]

More than my left nut is worth.. Mind you its taken a few hits over the years

Australian dollars I've been quoted $385 with 3 inserts.

Trailenduro direct lists..
?169.99 - S3 GG EC/CC cyilnder head kit for 250/300
$262 aussie dollars.. But not including delays or postage and they won't reply to my email enquiry.

Aussie store has it in stock and I can have it in 2 days along with my fresh top end.

[Sixdays]

You can check your squish with the head on. Take the plug out and use a strip of 1/8 inch solder. Just put it in the plug hole point to the cylinder wall above the wrist pin area. Then slowly spin the engine over with the kick starter. I alway check the left and right side just make sure I get a correct reading.