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Enduro Chassis & Body Enduro Frame, Plastic, Brakes, Bars, Controls, wheels, tires, sprockets & gearing. |
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#11
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I use the screw driver method. Before my backpack with a sweet selection of tools got stolen I used a chain press. Regarding installation of the masterlink, I recently saw pictures of the cases on a WR that had a masterlink failure and they were ugly. A simple way to prevent such a catastrophe is to install the master link such that the clip is on the inside of the cahin. If it fails, it would come out away from the cases not grind/cut into them.
Paul B 02 se 300 02 WRX |
#12
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PEB, that is a great tip, thanks.
Matt, call me a caveman, but I've been gently prying my links off with a screwdriver since 1982. Never a problem. Maybe I'm one of those intelligent, sensitive cavemen like the ones in the Geico commercials...
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"Conviction is a luxury of those on the sidelines." '13 Beta 300RR - race bike '02 GG300XC - "Billie Baroo" '01 DR650 '02 GG 280 Pro '06 YZ 250 '07 WR450 '00 TT125RL '94 YZ200 - custom keeper |
#13
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MattR:
I too use a "removable" master link for my D.I.D x-ring chain. To remove it, I use a small two-jaw gear puller, placing the "jaws" on either side of the link (closest to the clip) while keeping them in-line with the pin--which in turn contacts the puller's threaded post. A couple of quick turns, and the outer plate is removed. For balance, I use a short Craftsman 3/8" "T"-handle and a shallow-well six-point socket. This configuration keeps the torque I'm applying directly over the pin, thus helping to stabilize the procedure. This set-up is a cheap alternative to buying a specialty tool. In fact, it's so easy to use, even a caveman could do it! :-) (I remove my chain after every second ride for a thorough cleaning.) Happy Trails, TP '03 EC 300 |
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