Coolant in crankcase = no fun

[stainlesscycle]

had a few minutes to pull the motor. looks not good. motor is definitely coming apart. pics will follow. gotta run and do some errands, i'll have to split it later today.

[GMP]

stainless,

Your not bad, you said 6206. I said 6306 because that is what has been in the older bikes that I was familiar with. From '02 (maybe '01?) through '07 they used the NJ206ET roller bearing, and in '08 went to the sealed 6206 ball bearings that have the same dimmensions as the NJ206ET, so same cases. So, you can go one of three ways: sealed 6206, open 6206, NJ206ET (all C3 clearance spec). IMO I would just put the roller back in, can't wrap my head around the sealed bearing idea. One more thing to go wrong.

FYI:

6306 - 30 x 72 x 19
6206 - 30 x 62 x 16
NJ206ET - 30 x 62 x 16

For rebuilding an older bike, I've used the M306 heavy duty version with extra ball and machined cage. Still running today in an '00! The M206 is another option. Also, now there are more ceramic and ceramic hybrid choices available than there were a few years back.

This is all relative to the 250/300 only.

[stainlesscycle]

Originally Posted by GMP

stainless,

Your not bad, you said 6206. I said 6306 because that is what has been in the older bikes that I was familiar with. From '02 (maybe '01?) through '07 they used the NJ206ET roller bearing, and in '08 went to the sealed 6206 ball bearings that have the same dimmensions as the NJ206ET, so same cases. So, you can go one of three ways: sealed 6206, open 6206, NJ206ET (all C3 clearance spec). IMO I would just put the roller back in, can't wrap my head around the sealed bearing idea. One more thing to go wrong.

FYI:

6306 - 30 x 72 x 19
6206 - 30 x 62 x 16
NJ206ET - 30 x 62 x 16

For rebuilding an older bike, I've used the M306 heavy duty version with extra ball and machined cage. Still running today in an '00! The M206 is another option. Also, now there are more ceramic and ceramic hybrid choices available than there were a few years back.

This is all relative to the 250/300 only.

i have sealed or open 6206 in stock. and nj206 on order, for delivery tomorrow.. what works better? i know that honda tried the roller for a few years, on a quad and had lotsa failures, so they went back to the balls...

welp, had to go do some banking, slowed me down a little bit. cases are ready to be split if i could get that dumb right crank nut off. it's lh thread correct? loosens cw. correct?


edit: got the nut. had to break out the 1" impact. cracked a 1/2" 30mm thin wall trying to loosen it.

[pscook]

Originally Posted by stainlesscycle

i have sealed or open 6206 in stock. and nj206 on order, for delivery tomorrow.. what works better? i know that honda tried the roller for a few years, on a quad and had lotsa failures, so they went back to the balls...

welp, had to go do some banking, slowed me down a little bit. cases are ready to be split if i could get that dumb right crank nut off. it's lh thread correct? loosens cw. correct?


edit: got the nut. had to break out the 1" impact. cracked a 1/2" 30mm thin wall trying to loosen it.

I am inside my cases for the first time (2002 XC300), and want to know how to pull/remove the bearing from the left side (the rollers). Any tips? I am lining up the heat and the hammer, it's just what drift to use on the outer race since it's so well nestled inside the case.

[stainlesscycle]

do you mean the case half of the bearing or the part that ends up on the crank

[stainlesscycle]

i'm putting in a open 6206. if the nj bearing has more play by it's nature, i would think that would add to vibrations, and transfer that vibe to the other bearing. plus i don't wanna deal with a 2 piece bearing. my crank guy is gonna remove the end stuck on the crank.

[pscook]

Originally Posted by stainlesscycle

do you mean the case half of the bearing or the part that ends up on the crank

The case half. I sent the crank off to RB Designs, hoping he can get the inner race off there, it's the outer that I'm having trouble wrapping my head around. Well, with my limited selection of bearing removal tools. I have the hammer, it's just the aiming part that is giving me fits. Everything else is out of both case halves, at least well enough to run them through the dis.. (ahem) I mean "parts" washer last night, going to attack that outer race this afternoon. Any tips or suggestions would be appreciated.

[GMP]

With the seal out, can you get a driver on the roller section from the ignition side? I warm the cases and use various drivers I made from brass or aluminum, whatever works, either with a mallet on the bench with a rag protecting the gasket surfaces, or in a press. They usually come out with a few strikes if the case is warm.

Like I said I think the roller is a good deal, I have had no problems. More running clearance likely would mean more vibes, but also more tolerance for bore alignment. They like oil too.

I guess your using what you have, but I'd go with the M206 if you want to run a ball bearing. My bearing guy used to supply Ty Davis the M series bearings for the Yamahas he used to run.

I hit the crank nut with a propane torch and a 1/2" impact does fine.

[stainlesscycle]

to remove bearing from case. make sure ignition seal is out.

break the polyamide cage and remove rollers/cage.

heat case gently with mapp/propane. it doesn't take much. i could still almost touch it with my finger...

from the ignition side, with a big flat screwdriver or flat edged drift. round one won't work. chisel may cut bearing and not really work. catch the lip of the bearing, and give a wack. rotate 180 and repeat. it came out pretty easy. use a rag to stop from marring any surfaces.

[stainlesscycle]