S3 Race Custom Modified EC250 Complete Rebuild

[GMP]

Jake,

What do you mean by "governer and actuator"? Your not pulling up on the rod or moving the governer are you? If you did, I suggest you check for disloged balls (in the governer). The flapper and drums in the cylinder willl feel slightly different depending on position because the leverage on the main flap changes slightly.

[Jakobi]

Originally Posted by GMP

Jake,

What do you mean by "governer and actuator"? Your not pulling up on the rod or moving the governer are you? If you did, I suggest you check for disloged balls (in the governer). The flapper and drums in the cylinder willl feel slightly different depending on position because the leverage on the main flap changes slightly.

I already had my balls out They're were they're meant to be. The governor being where the balls are housed. The actuator being the arm and plate on the PV shaft. Its not resistance to the actual powervalve assembly or drums. Its where the pin seats behind the governor and the pressure of the spring. At one side its nice and firm. If I grab the spring and rotate it around it feels like it has much less resistance. I think I'll disconnect it all again today and double check it. I'm pretty good at doing that..

[jhendr3702]

Originally Posted by Jakobi

I already had my balls out They're were they're meant to be. The governor being where the balls are housed. The actuator being the arm and plate on the PV shaft. Its not resistance to the actual powervalve assembly or drums. Its where the pin seats behind the governor and the pressure of the spring. At one side its nice and firm. If I grab the spring and rotate it around it feels like it has much less resistance. I think I'll disconnect it all again today and double check it. I'm pretty good at doing that..

jake.. nice job here.. very good info..

as many times as i have read about dis lodging the balls in the pv governor, i never really figured out what everyone was talking about.. until i did it...

doh....

[Jakobi]

I ended up laying it on its side and setting the tension again. I think it was that the shaft wasn't fully seated (clip against bearing) when standing upright so when I layed it over it had more slop in it, which would have become evident when putting the cover back on. Its good now. There is still a variance in the tension depending on the location of the governor/spring assembly when rotating it through its stroke so I set it up for light return to the stop at the weakest point. The rest feels good, and in reality with the engine turning it should average out anyway.

Onto the water pump and I have a good couple mms to shave from the checkpoint impellor. I'm about to go take some pics. I don't have access to a lathe so I'll have to go about fixing it another way. I'll probably just shave down the pointed tips of the checkpoint to match the stock one (which only just rubs with no gasket).

[Jakobi]

Originally Posted by jhendr3702

jake.. nice job here.. very good info..

as many times as i have read about dis lodging the balls in the pv governor, i never really figured out what everyone was talking about.. until i did it...

doh....

I know my balls Haha! My mowers got a few years on it and I have to keep the bearings in the governor for the starter cord lubed or they bind up. Seems like I have to pull it at least once a year.

[Jakobi]

Ok can that idea. Lapping from the cooling fins is a waste of time. I brought it down to the same height as my stock and still no clearance. I then took it another mm down in hope but it keeps rubbing. There is a good reason Glenn did his the way he did. Now I think I've taken enough off the fins that it probably won't cool as well as it could so I'm going back to the stock plastic one. It fits well and doesn't contact with the gasket in.

I know the simple solution is to just clearance it out with another gasket, or a spacer but I'm not fond of that as all it takes is a blonde moment or a mechanic, or the next owner to not know this and its back to the potential problem.

[Jakobi]

A fair bit of time wasted playing water pump this morning, and ended up just going back with the stock as it fits and doesn't rub against the case. I also found the particular alignment of the case could cause minor rubbing vs no rubbing. I assembled all the seals, impellor and shaft in the outer case before installing it onto the bike.

Some issues with the outer case. I couldn't get it to lay flat on the engine case around the kick starter shaft. It was out considerably. Looked closer and found the plastic sleeve that retains the kick starter spring had backed out of position. Once back in place everything dropped together really easily. All gaskets replaced and torqued up to spec. Countershaft and kick start shaft seals pressed in.

Now time to drop it back in the bike. Everything turns over nice and easily by hand. No strange sounds or binding. Comparing the feeling of the flywheel shaft and crank from before to after it feels much snugger now. Hopefully will see less vibes too.

[(F5)]

While you're about it. . . oops, erm anyways I've just pulled my cover apart after a youtube clip http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dI0fUUHaDjQ
showing the lever arm at bottom of wire rod hits the case. Mine did. He took his off & bent his, but I just took it off & touched mine with the grinder & then made sure the burrs didn't impinge the wire. Now there is a gap.

Then checked & found the wire rubbed a bit against the triangle plate so bent slightly.

Yet to try it out, but explains a noise I was getting.

[Jakobi]

I watched that vid too and checked when I had the side cover off. Good clearance on mine.

[(F5)]

good,
mine had left marks in the case. Sometimes got a rattle & sometimes a clunk, perhaps this.