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Enduro Suspension Tuning & maintenance of Enduro forks, shocks, etc


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  #21  
Old 01-15-2019, 08:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jakobi View Post
Sorry, I have confused you. I read the base valve stack wrong and figured the 28 was against the piston. The stack is very strange that it tapers a lot of bleed and then clamps on the 28.. Are you certain you recorded it correctly?
Ah, ok. Had me really confused there. Yes, that is exactly how it came out. The other side matched exactly.

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Originally Posted by Jakobi View Post
I also looked at your stacks again and don't think I would change the mid comp stack too much. It only has 2 x 20.1's already..
Hmm, is the mid comp the stack on the other side of the piston with the rebound stack?

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Originally Posted by Jakobi View Post
Did you mention what the float clearance is?
No I did not. I honestly don't know what that is or how to measure it.


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  #22  
Old 01-15-2019, 09:08 PM
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The damper rod has the piston attached to the end. One side is rebound, the other compression. With it assembled you'll notice that the compression side can float between the piston and its stopper. You can use feeler gauges to measure it up, or physically measure the amount of post without any shims and then subtract the stack.
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  #23  
Old 01-16-2019, 10:46 AM
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Ok, I understand that. What is it's significance?
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  #24  
Old 01-16-2019, 03:02 PM
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The more float, the more the mid valve compression stack can move away from the piston face, the less initial damping you have.

Tight float tends to feel firm and sharp with feedback through the bars; but not necessarily harsh.

Opening it up gives a plusher kind of ride.

But it's just another variable in the whole setup.

However, the mid valve is constantly displacing large volumes of fluid in both directions. Comparatively, the base valve which is a larger piston only has to flow the oil displaced by the damper rod entering the inner chamber/cartridge. As such changes in the mid tend to be more noticeable.
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  #25  
Old 01-16-2019, 03:09 PM
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I feel like a base valve change would be the quickest and easiest though, and given that the comp adjuster is just a free bleed past the base valve it would be the best place to try and get your clicker centered again. The problem being your base stack already has a lot of free bleed and I don't think adding more to the stack is the right way to go.

For comparison my 2013 had this as its stock stack.

BASEVALVE/Piston
12x.10
32x.15 (2)
26x.15
24x.10
22x.10
20x.10
18x.15
11x.20 (2)

I ended up with this.. but it was more of a build a whole new stack vs modifying the existing.
13x.1
32x.10 (3)
24x.10
32x.10
32x.15 (1)
30x.10
28x.10
26x.10
24x.10
22x.10
20x.10
18x.10
16x.10
14x.2
11x.2 (2)
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  #26  
Old 01-16-2019, 04:11 PM
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Thank you so much for the info and advice. Your explanation of the mid valve stack and it's float made it where even I could understand the concept. It takes me a while to grasp how some things work but once I do it's like an "ah ha!" moment.

So, what I'm thinking for what I currently have...

piston
11 x .3
11 x .3
18 x .1
20 x .1
24 x .1
13.8 x .1
31.8 x .15
31.8 x .15
28 x .1
2.5 spacer

...and going to...

piston
11 x .3
11 x .3
13.8 x .1
18 x .1
20 x .1
28 x .1
31.8 x .15
31.8 x .15
24 x .1
2.5 spacer

...then, if needed, I can play with the float by removing the 11 x .10 from it's stack or maybe moving it between the two 20 x .10 shims.

Does it sound like any of this might work? I think I'm about at that point I might have to send it to LTR or ZipTy. I wonder if either sells stacks so I don't have to ship my forks?
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  #27  
Old 01-16-2019, 09:24 PM
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No float on the base valve. The stack is clamped against the piston.

The mid valve is different.

Have a read here: http://www.racetech.com/page/title/F...-Valve%20Float
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  #28  
Old 01-17-2019, 02:32 PM
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Yes, I understand the float is only on the mid valve. That's why I said I could play with it and it's stack after playing with the base valve stack.
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  #29  
Old 01-17-2019, 02:41 PM
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Understood now
Your alterations to the base valve will be softer than how it is now. Give it a crack and see what you think if you have the time.

It will be quite a bit softer likely though, given that you're changing the clamp from 28mm to 24mm. This may not be a bad thing.

Good approach changing one circuit at a time too. Always easier to evaluate the change.
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  #30  
Old 01-17-2019, 03:58 PM
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With my compression all the way out it was really good on the MX track we raced on so quite a bit softer would probably work out.

Thanks again! Your insight has been invaluable!
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