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  #21  
Old 04-21-2014, 04:26 AM
n_green n_green is offline
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I run with the 6.0 spring I had, once fitted and under 9mm preload it is very difficult to make the spring move around, I will definitely chase up a spacer to use to get rid of the slop, for reference there is only 2mm of slop so not that much really.

While the shock was off I checked the linkage and swing arm bearings, very good coating of grease on these and also the needle roller bearings on the top and bottom shock mount. The rear wheel bearings are sealed and while the axle had a nice coating of grease the seals themselves were dry. Packed them with grease and also the front wheel which was the same.

Swingarm was up so I pulled the carb, changed the float height from 6mm to 8.5mm and got rid of the stock jetting - N1EF needle, can't remember the jets and threw in 40p,NECJ #3, 172m. Set the slide idle height and changed the butter phillips head screws for allen heads. Threw the carb back in, swung the subframe down re-oiled the air filter (looks like they use the same filter as the '11 - good) re-positioned the rear brake line (why does the factory insist on letting them rub the cases).

Had a look inside the air box and it all looks pretty well sealed, sure if I parked the bike in water up to the air box water is going to make its way in, but it doesn't look like water will get flicked in from the rear wheel and I rarely use my bike as a submarine so I should be ok.

Moved forward to the front of the bike, removed the bar mounted choke, removed the handlebar brace, started mounting up the biketique hand guards that came to a stop real quick, the stupid handlebars being double walled don't have a large enough ID to accommodate the bar end bolt.Need to drill it out to 14mm, which means I need to buy a 14mm drill bit ^duh
Removed the front blinkers and horn, tidied up the wiring.

Attempted to change out the fork springs, but I don't have a fork cap tool yet nor a spanner/socket/shifter big enough so I'll buy one tomorrow and do it then.

Finished up by checking the squish (the rough way by poking a bit of solder through the spark plug hole) - yep its still rather large for the 14's. Squish is 2.5mm ^lol

A few things I need to do as well, motion pro T3 cable, install a Lithium battery as the seat with battery box is bloody heavy, install the rear axle block spring on the other side (why doesn't gas gas just put them on both sides?) fix the side stand - how do you fix the auto retraction on the 14's?

Then maybe, with any luck I'll actually ride it !psm


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  #22  
Old 04-21-2014, 04:48 AM
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Jakobi Jakobi is offline
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Brap! Brap! Brap!
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  #23  
Old 04-21-2014, 05:26 AM
n_green n_green is offline
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Oh yeah, checked the steering head bearings as well, lovely coat of grease all over them. Really impressed with the greasing from factory actually, with the exception of the wheel bearing seals it was a waste of my time even checking the rest of the bearings.
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  #24  
Old 04-21-2014, 05:26 AM
n_green n_green is offline
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Brap! Brap! Brap!
Haha would you believe I haven't even started the bike yet?! I've owned it for a whole week now
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  #25  
Old 04-21-2014, 04:26 PM
desertgasser300 desertgasser300 is offline
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Haha would you believe I haven't even started the bike yet?! I've owned it for a whole week now
WHAT???? Thats just cruel and unusual!!

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  #26  
Old 04-21-2014, 05:38 PM
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I agree! I got to boot mine as part of pre delivery and ride it a length of the shop and back!

Didn't really start it after that until she was truly ready to go though!
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  #27  
Old 04-21-2014, 05:50 PM
nato nato is offline
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Oh yeah, checked the steering head bearings as well, lovely coat of grease all over them. Really impressed with the greasing from factory actually, with the exception of the wheel bearing seals it was a waste of my time even checking the rest of the bearings.
I just took the gamble and didn't check. Got it home ran it in and UPAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!
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  #28  
Old 04-21-2014, 10:10 PM
roverhybrids roverhybrids is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n_green View Post
......Moved forward to the front of the bike, removed the bar mounted choke, removed the handlebar brace, started mounting up the biketique hand guards that came to a stop real quick, the stupid handlebars being double walled don't have a large enough ID to accommodate the bar end bolt.Need to drill it out to 14mm, which means I need to buy a 14mm drill bit ^duh....
get some of the bar inserts for your bars with the tap:
http://www.g2ergo.com/store/threaded-bar-end-mounts/

for the forks I recommend the race tech brand wrench (49mm) It is thinner than the motionpro one I bought and can be used with the bars mounted.
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  #29  
Old 04-23-2014, 06:54 AM
n_green n_green is offline
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Motion Pro T3 installed, decent hand guards installed, Lithium battery installed - so much better, the seat weighs a normal amount now, not almost 3 kg!

The forks: Both sides had the std clicker and pfp settings (quick question - does the pfp adjuster click, mine don't, I have to gauge the turns setting by monitoring the position of the bleed screw - sound right?)

Swapped out the springs - what an easy job, although its a shame you have to dump the oil to do it, the only downside of TC forks I guess.

In the LHS (brake side) leg there was 240ml of oil in the outer leg, looks brand new, and so it should, this bike has never been ridden. The cartridge isn't bled very well, the shaft won't extend the final inch of travel on its own and I could hear a bit of air gurgle in there.

RHS leg was better - 290ml of oil and the cart was a little better although still didn't extend the final few mm of travel.

.50 springs thrown in, 330ml of oil put back in each leg, bike back together (16NM for the top clamp and 8NM on all three bolts in the lower leg - sound OK?)

Quick bounce test at 15 clicks of rebound - wow she bounces back quick, I can already tell some valving tweaks will be required.

Tidied everything up and put the bike back together. Tomorrow I'll start it for the first time
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  #30  
Old 04-23-2014, 07:11 AM
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Fred1956 Fred1956 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n_green View Post
The forks: Both sides had the std clicker and pfp settings (quick question - does the pfp adjuster click, mine don't, I have to gauge the turns setting by monitoring the position of the bleed screw - sound right?)
PFP does NOT click.......that's proper
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