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Enduro Intake/Carburetion - 2 stroke Jetting, Reeds, Air Filters, etc.


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  #1  
Old 08-03-2017, 10:42 AM
Mikeyx Mikeyx is offline
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Default EC300 dies slowly at idle when warm

Well, the headline pretty much sums it up.

Pilot jet is #35, and neither of the setting screws (idle, pilot air) has an effect on idle speed. Of course, the engine dies if the air screw is wound in.

Don't know if it's relevant to the issue, but the bike is equipped with VForce3 reed valve.

Any suggestions?
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Old 08-03-2017, 02:20 PM
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(F5) (F5) is offline
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Yeah. Why do you care? As long as it idles for like 3 seconds it won't stall in normal riding circumstances.

But if you have a N1F-anything needle it will run badly at closed to low throttle and small pilots won't help the wet gas blobs being sucked past the too thin needle.
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Old 08-03-2017, 04:20 PM
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Jakobi Jakobi is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by (F5) View Post
Yeah. Why do you care? As long as it idles for like 3 seconds it won't stall in normal riding circumstances.

But if you have a N1F-anything needle it will run badly at closed to low throttle and small pilots won't help the wet gas blobs being sucked past the too thin needle.
This entirely!

The N1EF needle has a super short straight section, and is rich as all buggery on both the diameter and 1st taper. Most people try and bump the idle up and go to a smaller pilot (35) to overcome the richness, but you're then left with a more inconsistent idle and an air screw with little effect.

Have a read in the jetting threads.
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Old 08-05-2017, 04:29 AM
Mikeyx Mikeyx is offline
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Well, there is the N1EF needle in, with the clip in 3rd groove. The bike came w/ also N1EG and CHN (brass) needles.

I changed to #40 pilot jet, air screw 1 out. Now the engine has sluggish and sputtery throttle response up until the opening of the PV when the bike really takes off and has a significantly higher power output than w/ #35 jet. On a 4-stroke, sputtering would be a sure sign of a lean mix...

Another issue: There is a significant misalignment between the carb body and air filter box outlet, and I cannot make the flanges go flush - not even close. Actually, yesterday I managed to get the carb out of the airbox and used a good hour to get it back there (what a f****ing ordeal). Any pointers?
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Old 08-05-2017, 05:05 AM
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Undo the subframe,

Throw away those needles or forever be subservient to shitty running.
Your choice.
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'07 EC300 GG
'14 TXT250 GG
'? 496 CPI Cheetah RZ/RGV hybrid
'22 765 Street Triple RS
'21 XTrainer
'69 Stinger T125 Suzuki
'23 TRS 250RR (it's a Trials thing)
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Old 08-05-2017, 05:58 AM
Nocams Nocams is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by (F5) View Post
Undo the subframe,

Throw away those needles or forever be subservient to shitty running.
Your choice.
I always use a heatgun to lightly soften the airbox boot to aid refitment of the airbox. Also what carb size,elevation and ambient temps have you got?
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