flywheel weight install/powervalve questoin

[mountain thumper]

does anybody have good pics of an installation or removal of fww?
i just ordered a 14ozer from gofasters, want to make sure i do it right.

also i saw the tech article on cleaning the power valve. nice instructions, but doesnt specify if there are any special cleaners to use, or not to use. are there?
i dont even understand the pv yet, i took the cover off to have a look and several ounces of oil blooped out all over.
afterwards it ran a little bit snappier.. can you just take off the covers and spray it out with carb cleaner or something? or do you have to completely dissasemble the whole shabang..

[HydroDog]

Originally Posted by mountain thumper

can you just take off the covers and spray it out with carb cleaner or something? or do you have to completely dissasemble the whole shabang..

You will have to disassemble the whole thing to get the carbon off the flapper valve.

[rpduc]

There's not much to photograph regarding the FWW. Take off the cover, take off the flywheel, put on the FWW, put the cover back on.

Easiest way to get the old flywheel off is with an air impact because you can hold enough resistance with one hand to crack the nut loose. Another method is to get a piston stop, which is no more than an over long plastic sparkplug that you thread into the plug hole to "lock" the motor. That stop is also handy for torquing the new flywheel. I think some people just zip the weight back on with an impact too, but I kinda like to know exactly how much torque is involved when messing with the crank...

I put red loctite on flywheel nuts on my Duc but I don't know if that is common practice on dirtbike flywheel weights. It necessitates a good blast of heat if you need to remove the weight, but IMO that's better than having the flywheel remove itself...

There is a good suggestion I saw somewhere on here describing how to better seal that cover too. Apparently they do not seal that well. Use two cover gaskets and "glue" them to the case and each other with a thin coat of RTV sealant then grease the cover and snug the bolts. After the RTV sets, the two gaskets make a better seal and remain in place if you yank the cover, which is a good idea after washing or wet rides.

[GMP]

Yes, a 3/8" pneumatic is all you need for a FWW install/removal. A little Blue Loctite is OK but I have never had a problem without it. One burst with a quality 3/8" on max @ 90 -100 PSI is approx the right torque. Actually a 3/8" is a very nice tool for working on the bike as it is limited in torque and will not get you in trouble like a 1/2" can. The only thing you should need a 1/2" for is the crank pinion nut.

I'm busted up right now and can't even spin a wrench. Once I get to the point of being able to do that I will perform and photo common services on my bike for this site. My riding season is over so I might as well. I've promised Jeff awhile ago I'd do this but have just been too busy.

Ross,

As soon as I can ride a street bike again (hopefully in a month) a Hypermotard will be making its way to my garage. That should pacify me until I can hit the trails again.

[rpduc]

As soon as I can ride a street bike again

What did you do? Did I miss some woeful tale?

I'm jealous of that Hyper. Just don't let the hooligan lineage of that thing get you back in trouble...

[GMP]

Ross,

Broke my right clavicle pretty bad. Getting some hardware installed tommorrow. Should be good to go for a street bike before summer.

Hey, nice stuff you make! I'm sure my wife wishes I did that for a hobby instead of hitting rocks and stripping bark off trees.

[rpduc]

Apologies for the thread jack Thump...

I saw your original post Glenn. I'll comment over there...