ASII Float Level With Pix

[andoman]

I have read a lot recently about poor fuel economy and the adjust-ability (or lack thereof) of the float height of the the ASII. I only have a couple of hours on my '11 EC 300, but with a 40 pilot, E3CH needle in #2, and a 172 main at 5000 feet, I shouldn't use half a tank in an hour of trail riding.
I read that the "adjustment tang" was plastic and could not be adjusted. I opened mine up to find out for myself and thought I would share some interesting fact that I learned.

Pix #1: you can see that the adjustment tang on mine is indeed metal and will bend. I was very careful, because the whole float assembly looks pretty flimsy.
Also, note the witness mark in the center of the right float. It is obvious that the top of the float has been spending some time pinned against the top of the float chamber... In fact, when I turned the carb upside-down, the weight of the float caused it to lay hard against the top of the chamber with no perceptible cushioning by the viton tip of needle in the seat.

Pix #2: The rough casting in the center at the top of the float chamber is what caused the witness mark on the float.

Pix #3: This view confirms that the float height as referenced to the seam in the float is not usable in the ASII. when the float is level to the carb body, the seam is well below the bowl-carb mating surface.

Pix#4: After bending my tang, the carb angle is changed perceptibly in the "lower fuel level" direction. There is also a perceptible contact cushion of the viton tip of the needle.

I have to wait to get my suspenders back from Les at LTR before I can give accurate milage nos. But I will follow up with the info here.

[wence]

Good write up mate, thanks,
Mark

[roverhybrids]

does pic #4 have a higher float level then pic #3?

[Jakobi]

Originally Posted by roverhybrids

does pic #4 have a higher float level then pic #3?

Pic 3 will be with the float just freeballing so that you can see the seam. The next one Pic 4, will be with the carb laying on an angle so that the float tang rests against the needle. If you flip the carb all the way upside down you'll notice it will fully depress the needle and you won't get a correct level either.

Thats the same as how I've set mine up. Just off level. The measurement is taken from the body to the lowest point of the float. About where the AL1 is printed on the body (between L and 1). Stock i think is around 6mm which puts the floats level across body. I moved to somewhere between 7 and 8mm (to compensate for the weird angle the GG carb sits at - tilted forwards).

Running similar jetting specs to the poster (42 N3CJ#2 172) I get over 100kms out of my 9.5L (1000ft+ 90F. 70%+RH)

[Jim Cook]

Jakobi's reply to the original post should clear up your question.
#3 is only shown as an illustration of the seam. Read what he says in my copy below.

I hope this helps.
Jim

Originally Posted by Jakobi

Pic 3 will be with the float just freeballing so that you can see the seam. The next one Pic 4, will be with the carb laying on an angle so that the float tang rests against the needle. If you flip the carb all the way upside down you'll notice it will fully depress the needle and you won't get a correct level either.

Thats the same as how I've set mine up. Just off level. The measurement is taken from the body to the lowest point of the float. About where the AL1 is printed on the body (between L and 1). Stock i think is around 6mm which puts the floats level across body. I moved to somewhere between 7 and 8mm (to compensate for the weird angle the GG carb sits at - tilted forwards).

Running similar jetting specs to the poster (42 N3CJ#2 172) I get over 100kms out of my 9.5L (1000ft+ 90F. 70%+RH)

[andoman]

Originally Posted by roverhybrids

does pic #4 have a higher float level then pic #3?

Jakobi is correct: The float is just "floating" in pix #3 to show the seam. If the float tab were bent and the resting position of the float actually resulted in the position of #3, then the float height would be higher than #4. Raising the float height, lowers the fuel level.

For me, I had to think through the fuel/float relationship several times before I went bending. With the carb upside-down and then with the float assembly upside-down in my hand away from the carb, I had to triple check that I was bending it the correct direction.

Feeling confident about achieving a "correct" height is further complicated because the perfectly straight seam is not visible along the float to readily fix an angular relationship to the carb body.
All that one has are round corners and vague lines made by light reflected off the float. In hindsight, I would have laid a straight reference line on the float with a carefully cut narrow strip of masking tape.

[Jakobi]

I also connected my fuel line up to the carb with the bowl off and manually operated the floats to see when they would begin letting fuel flow and then cut off.

The idea about laying tape is alright. Ideally you'd cut a little template outof cardboard and work off measurements.

[andoman]

Originally Posted by Jakobi

I also connected my fuel line up to the carb with the bowl off and manually operated the floats to see when they would begin letting fuel flow and then cut off.

That's a brilliant idea. I'll do that.
I wish I had done that before I made an adjustment to see if, perhaps, the float was unable to rise high enough to even cut off the fuel, given the contact the float was making with the top of the chamber.

[Packman]

Just phoned GasGas uk and he said there is not float height measurmnet !

He said if its coming out the overflow while on the side stand keep moving the tab up until it stops !

Usefull its not !

[FastFast]

My thanks to those who contributed in this thread. It's taken me forever to finally tear into the bike and adjust the float level. I'm going to tell you what has been repeated again and again in regards to jetting the GasGas. ADJUST THE FLOAT FIRST. I didn't, don't be like me haha!

I spent quite a few hours getting the jetting dialed in just right for my bike. And although it ran great, had lots of power, and linear delivery, I could never dial out this significant burble just off idle. The first few millimeters of throttle were never clean, and as I got to be a better technical rider I found that clean carburetion right in those first few millimeters is most important.

Well, it's all different now! Huge success after the adjustment. The bike does everything better and is clean right off idle. Screw adjustments are very noticeable and effective now. That burble is gonzo! Cheers to those who contribute to the forum and share knowledge for our community.