ohlins shock seal

[liamthom]

hey guys, I have a ohlins rear shock (gg 8884 stamped on top) and it's dumping oil down the shaft, I was wondering what seals i should pick up? i've never opened a shock but I've done forks a handful of times but dont know what i should buy to fix my problem.
Thanks

[Cox76y]

I have the same problem with mine. Will be interested to hear what's recommended. I was of the opinion though that the gas in the shock would have to be released and then regassed once seal has been replaced and a special tool is needed to refill it.. So I'm interested to know if this is the case or not..
Jc

[Jacob 'Berg]

It is my understanding that the Ohlins shocks are a pita to bleed properly and that special tools (vacuum pump) and knowledge are required to do it right. I had a reputable tuner service my shock and he still struggled with bleeding the shock.

The seal head may need to be replaced as well.

Try Coppersmith for the the seals and/or service, or contact Ohlins USA.

[liamthom]

Originally Posted by Cox76y

I have the same problem with mine. Will be interested to hear what's recommended. I was of the opinion though that the gas in the shock would have to be released and then regassed once seal has been replaced and a special tool is needed to refill it.. So I'm interested to know if this is the case or not..
Jc

I know you need to drain the nitrogen before service and the ohlins kit is expensive but motion pro makes a kit that i would pick up Part # 08-0075.

[Jakobi]

The TTX is harder to bleed properly without a vacuum setup. The 888 shouldn't pose any significant issues bleeding by hand if you take your time.

You'll need the needle to discharge the N2 BEFORE commencing any work. Also make sure that all your clicker circuits are wide open before discharging.

They aren't really any different to any other shock to work on.

Few different methods to use when bleeding, but simplest is probably just filling the N2 ressie up, overflowing some oil as you drop the separator piston back in, bottom it out and then use the seal head fluid displacement to set the piston height.

You can either source just the seal, or the whole seal head. I've found depending on the state of the inner bushing, that it's almost just as cost effective and big time savings to just buy the whole seal head pre assembled.

Another thing to note, is that often the N2 pressure helps maintain the seal (pushes the lip against the shaft). Low pressures can cause leaking, as can damaged seals. Make sure you check the shaft well for burrs.

[rvktm]

the seal is is just a 16 mm x ring about 10p the bush is a 16mm du ; i use a 6mm round punch ground to a chisel point to bend the du over . used this method on all types of shocks over the years the hardest to get out are 80s 14mm wp

[Cox76y]

Liamthom,
Not sure if you have the manual or not n not sure if the link is for the 888 exclusively but think it gives a general idea of what needs to be done. Hope the link works,
https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&s...9Z2LfVia7LOPAA
Regards
JC

[liamthom]

Originally Posted by rvktm

the seal is is just a 16 mm x ring about 10p the bush is a 16mm du ; i use a 6mm round punch ground to a chisel point to bend the du over . used this method on all types of shocks over the years the hardest to get out are 80s 14mm wp

is that the only seal i need? is there anything else that should be replaced?

[Zman]

Originally Posted by Cox76y

Liamthom,
Not sure if you have the manual or not n not sure if the link is for the 888 exclusively but think it gives a general idea of what needs to be done. Hope the link works,
https://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&s...9Z2LfVia7LOPAA
Regards
JC

Nice find! Thanks for sharing the manual!

[rvktm]

if you can get the sizes the o'rings on the gas piston and seal block allso the piston band if it looks worn