headlight issues on 300 -12

[Neil E.]

I can only assume that the original "rectifier" is actually a voltage regulator. If it is a rectifier, it may only be doing voltage regulation. A rectifier does both regulation and rectification; a voltage regulator does only regulation.

In your case do not ground the trailtech r/r. It will supply floating/isolated DC for your extra lights just fine. The extra lights get power from the r/r without the lights or the r/r being grounded.

I use a split system on my estart bike. I have my heated grips running on AC and everything else on DC.

[Peppito]

Hi. Of course the original is only a regulator!
Thanks for your answer! Then i think my Trailtech is broken, i have voltage AC in but nothing on the DC side.
i?m not surprised, it looks like garbage

[Neil E.]

Is the DC side connected to a battery? This is a requirement for the r/r to function.

[Peppito]

I have measured with the r/r connect to the battery, but i have only like 12,8 volt there. If i measure the battery with the bike off it?s 12,8 so i think the r/r is broken

[Peppito]

Hi again

Was just out in the garage and did a measure again.
The r/r will not charge the battery. I hade 12.17 v in the battery, connected it to the bike, but it on idle and reved a little. Still 12.17v.
I will attach 2 images of the r/r.

From the beginning one yellow wire was connected to the white from stator, it still is.
The other yellow wire was connected to frame ground, right behind the original regulator.
And black and red connected to the battery.
But when it was connected like that the r/r was charging the battery with about 14v. The only thing i have done is disconnect the ground cable from the frame. But i have touched the little voltage dial (when the ground was still connected), when i turned the dial the lights connected to AC become more stable. Unfortunate i did?t measure the voltage after i did that. Maybe i broke it when i did that. And under all of this i notice that the AC power dropped after a while, and the i disconnected the ground to the r/r.

[Neil E.]

Originally Posted by Peppito

From the beginning one yellow wire was connected to the white from stator, it still is. The other yellow wire was connected to frame ground, right behind the original regulator. And black and red connected to the battery. But when it was connected like that the r/r was charging the battery with about 14v.

This part of your post makes sense; that is how it's supposed to work. The rest of your post makes no sense. Certainly if the r/r is not working there will be no change in battery voltage. The small dial is for voltage trimming and you need to be careful with it (fragile). It should not matter if the r/r housing is connected to chassis ground; does something change when it is grounded?

The wire entry at the r/r looks rough, maybe you should get a new r/r. I don't see how adjusting the dial can have any effect on the AC voltage unless the r/r is faulty.

[Peppito]

Ok. But i thought that the other yellow wire from r/r shouldnt be grounded to the frame. But when it was i had like 14 volts to the battery so if is the correct installation, maybe its so simple that the r/r is broken and thats why my AC-voltage dips when Reving.
It looks like the r/r has been connected like that for awhile

No difference when i ground the chassi of the r/r.

[Neil E.]

To review: AC power comes off the stator at the yellow wire (medium voltage) and the white wire (maximum voltage). The other side of the circuit for both is chassis ground (the bottom end of the stator winding is connected to the engine case/motorcycle frame).

For battery charging we want maximum voltage thus we connect the INPUT of the r/r to white and ground. Only the input OR the ouput of a fullwave rectifier can be grounded. Therefore because of the stock stator ground you must NOT ground the r/r output. This means the black and red ONLY go to the battery. This is the correct installation.

I would not be concerned about a slight drop in AC voltage. At some point the stator current is being consumed so the AC voltage may drop a bit. This is likely due to the output that is going into battery charging or being used by your lighting.

On a single phase system the main concern is normally clipping voltage so that bulbs don't burn out. At a certain point if you have too much load on the stator you will always get a voltage drop. The system just doesn't produce that much power. If you get 14VDC to the battery and it stays charged, that's what's important.

If you have a significant drop in AC voltage, then your stator is in poor shape or your r/r is shorting out somehow. I'd replace the r/r first since it costs less than the stator. Remember that all connections must be sound for the system to work right. Corrosion can be a big problem. There isn't anything more I can advise you on, it may be time to spend money on parts.

[Peppito]

Originally Posted by Neil E.

To review: AC power comes off the stator at the yellow wire (medium voltage) and the white wire (maximum voltage). The other side of the circuit for both is chassis ground (the bottom end of the stator winding is connected to the engine case/motorcycle frame).

For battery charging we want maximum voltage thus we connect the INPUT of the r/r to white and ground. Only the input OR the ouput of a fullwave rectifier can be grounded. Therefore because of the stock stator ground you must NOT ground the r/r output. This means the black and red ONLY go to the battery. This is the correct installation.

I would not be concerned about a slight drop in AC voltage. At some point the stator current is being consumed so the AC voltage may drop a bit. This is likely due to the output that is going into battery charging or being used by your lighting.

On a single phase system the main concern is normally clipping voltage so that bulbs don't burn out. At a certain point if you have too much load on the stator you will always get a voltage drop. The system just doesn't produce that much power. If you get 14VDC to the battery and it stays charged, that's what's important.

If you have a significant drop in AC voltage, then your stator is in poor shape or your r/r is shorting out somehow. I'd replace the r/r first since it costs less than the stator. Remember that all connections must be sound for the system to work right. Corrosion can be a big problem. There isn't anything more I can advise you on, it may be time to spend money on parts.

Thanks for your excellent answer and for helping a rookie
Ok, But the other yellow wire from the r/r that was grounded when i bought the bike, should it be grounded or not?
That my biggest headache right now.

[Neil E.]

Assuming the yellow r/r wires are the INPUT to the r/r, then one of them MUST be grounded (other r/r yellow wire goes to the stator white wire). It's the only way whereby the r/r will be connected to the stator output.