Factory Needle/Jet Setting EC250

[theexception_03]

Originally Posted by gasmonkey

As said before,your nearly there.Drop the pilot a size or two then go to clip 2.Remember,one thing at a time.

Thanks, will do that on saturday, got my fingers crossed.

[Jakobi]

Originally Posted by theexception_03

The idle screw is only about 1 turn out, so yes its in alot.

You want the Idle screw out as far as possible (slide not raised much) and the Air screw to be between 1 turn out and 2.5 turns.

[theexception_03]

latest update,

N3EW #2
PJ 42
MJ 178
AS 2.5

This is my best result so far,
Idle is good, still can't get it too idle without idle screw being in alot
0-1/8 still has the same issue (missing/notchy/jumpy are the best words to descibe it)
1/8-1/4 close to 100%
1/4-1/2 spot on
WOT is good until revs get really high, so i am not sure if I am hitting redline

Seems to feel better under load eg; 1/8 throttle in 3rd isn't smooth but then open to 1/4 or 1/2 and its great, I can feel the band come on smooth and it sounds awesome.

[Jakobi]

Do you know what number slide is in it? You'll always have some burbling at light throttle too. If you lean things out to get rid of all the burble under light throttle it will be too lean to produce good torque when under load. Have a play with the air screw and see which way produces best effect at 1/8th and feel how it effects the power. Seems you're pretty close! FWW my bikes liked the 42 pilot and J diameter (N3EJ) or 40 and W diameter (N3EW), but this is using a 2010 model and a PWK ASII. I'm located Far North Qld.. Hot and humid, with a few hundred meters of elevation.

[theexception_03]

Originally Posted by Jakobi

Do you know what number slide is in it? You'll always have some burbling at light throttle too. If you lean things out to get rid of all the burble under light throttle it will be too lean to produce good torque when under load. Have a play with the air screw and see which way produces best effect at 1/8th and feel how it effects the power. Seems you're pretty close! FWW my bikes liked the 42 pilot and J diameter (N3EJ) or 40 and W diameter (N3EW), but this is using a 2010 model and a PWK ASII. I'm located Far North Qld.. Hot and humid, with a few hundred meters of elevation.

It's a #7 Slide.
Adelaide, as you know, is usually dry. We are getting alot of rain at the moment so RH is up. Day time temps are around 15'C. I am at sea level which makes me wonder why I can't run it any richer.
Anyway I will stick with this setting and move the air screw.

Is the N3EJ richer than the N3EW?

[Jakobi]

N3EJ is leaner, but only on the needle diameter of the straight section (at 0 -1/4). The needle diameter, pilot, and slide are all working together here, which is why it tends to be a bit finicky. Change one and it will affect the others too.

Work with the AS and you'll get there

[theexception_03]

Originally Posted by Jakobi

N3EJ is leaner, but only on the needle diameter of the straight section (at 0 -1/4). The needle diameter, pilot, and slide are all working together here, which is why it tends to be a bit finicky. Change one and it will affect the others too.

Work with the AS and you'll get there

I have gone to the #1 clip and A/S 2.5

I rode it around the yard, it had good throttle response 0-1/8
I tried it with the A/S at 1 just to feel the difference, it was harder to ride, and didn't want to idle.

I will be sticking with this set up and test riding it next weekend in the bush.

I might experiment with the other needles I have NEDW and NECW just to find out how they go.

Thanks for all the advice, I neally gave up on it but with a little guidance I think I have done it!

Cheers

[Jakobi]

Thats a pretty lean setup you've ended up with (I have run that lean and leaner in the past). Just be mindful of the engine and any symptoms it may present. Its possible to go lean enough down low to clean things up and then fall too lean in the mid range. Lack of power, flat throttle response, engine noises/pinging, spitting coolant or running hot, high engine temps are all signs you've gone too far. Riding around the yard is a little different to smashing it out in the bush too. Generally much less load on the engine in the yard.

N3CW is a half a clip leaner, or as I said previously you can run a leaner diameter to just change the 0-1/4 (biggest difference at 1/8th) without leaning out the rest of the throttle range.

When my bike was stock I found it prefered the leaner clip positions, but as I brought the squish in and raised the compression it needed more fuel to make good power.

[theexception_03]

I went for a good ride today, bike went ok but still have some issues with different throttle positions. Mainly 1/2 to 3/4, still have that missing problem. WOT is good once the revs get up high.

When the bike is on the side stand with the fuel tap open the carby leaks fuel out quite badly from one of the drain tubes. A mate of mine who was with me said it could be the float height.

[Jakobi]

Thats why you have had to jet it so lean if its overflowing. You need to confirm the float height again, but more likely is that a float is damaged and sticking, or the viton tip valve that lets fuel flow in has perished and isn't sealing correctly which will also cause overflow issues. You should be able to tip the bike 45 degrees to either side before having the carb overflow.