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Enduro Chassis & Body Enduro Frame, Plastic, Brakes, Bars, Controls, wheels, tires, sprockets & gearing. |
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#21
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Quote:
Use a heat gun/hair dryer/propane torch (with caution) to warm the hub before removing the bearings. A little heat helps a lot. Before you go to install your new bearings, put them in the freezer over night so they shrink a touch. Then warm up the hub just before installation and they should slide in (or go in with a couple of taps). Again, youtube for demonstrations. Good luck!
__________________
Phil (New bike pending...) |
#22
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And don't forget the spacer tube when you knock the new bearings in! Line it up before you fully seat the last bearing.
It's a major sickening feeling when you look round and the spacer tube is still on the bench! Be careful not to damage the new bearings when you knock them in. I use a socket reversed on an old socket extension so the flat side covers the width and spreads the load. |
#23
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Quote:
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#24
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This is the peice I?m still confused about. It is not in any demonstrations I have watched. It is not the spacer between the bearings. It is a hollow peice, inside the bearings, that the axle slides through. It is between the axle and the bearings.
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#25
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I take it that is the sprocket side. As others have mentioned, you have 2 bearings with a spacer between them on this side. That is probably what you are seeing. The axle runs through the spacer and on the inner race of the inside bearing. The outer spacer is turned down and runs on the inner race of the outer bearing.
Looking at the diagrams can help too! See item 33 on the attached image. The 2 bearings and washer between will all push out together when driven from the other side. Note: The other side with the single bearing (same as item 16) is retained with a circlip. |
#26
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PS. Note the orientation of part 33 when you take it out. It has a stepped ledge on it. Needs to go in the right way or it'll bind your bearings up when you torque the axle nut down.
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#27
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Quote:
Look at the spacer from the sprocket side: It is stepped (or should be). The skinniest part of the spacer fits inside of the inner race of the inner bearing, and the wider portion fits into the inner race of the outer bearing. Look at the diagram that Jakobi posted; that should help identify the parts in the hub.
__________________
Phil (New bike pending...) |
#28
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I see now. Thanks for clearing it up.
Anybody know what size drift pin I should buy? |
#29
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Thanks for the help everyone. After getting my tools out and doing it I realize how stupid my questions were. Two more stupid questions... on the spacer there is a foam ring that is glued to it...is this just to help keep the spacer centered when removing and installing bearings?
Also I took the 2 bearings out on the sprocket side first and the spacer came out. When I flipped it over to do the rotor side I put the punch on the inside of the surface that the bearing mounts to instead of the bearing. It took a a small chip out of this surface. It is not on a surface that the bearing will touch. I do not think any parts wil touch it but I just want to make sure that nothing will be messed up. I am going to take a file and smooth it out. Before putting the new bearings in. Will it effect anything? |
#30
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Nothing to worry about there mate!
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