|
Enduro Electrical & Wiring Lighting, Ignition, Wiring, Plugs, etc. |
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
hydraulic brake light switch
hey guys just put a new hydraulic brakelight switch on my ec 250 2000 model but it doesnt seem to be working.. my rear brake light works a treat but not the front??? any ideas or simple tests i can do to determine if its the switch or elsewere down the wire??
cheers luke |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Someone must have had problems with there banjo bolt before???
|
#3
|
|||
|
|||
do you have a multimeter? check for continuity between the wires and apply pressure the reading should change.. if not quick way, paperclip,, jump the harness side of the connector, bike on, see if the light works with a paperclip,, if it does the issue is the switch,, either its bad or needs to be bled better..
__________________
Steve 16 Beta 350rr 04 KTM 525 sx/exc gone 03 KTM 625 sxc-rehab unit-did its job and now gone 03 GG 250 ec-gone 97 GG 250 ec Gone |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Cheers dude the meter indicates the switch isnt working so I reckon it could need bleeding better.. Strugling to get all the air out tho...
|
#5
|
|||
|
|||
if your lever is flat (no brakes because it isn't bled yet) then the switch won't work. It is actuated by presure, not lever movement.
__________________
jeff '00 XC250 (mine) LTS front and rear suspension, power valve cover, carb jet kit and rear chain glide, RB Designs head mod, BRP tall triple clamp, backyard foot-peg lowering conversion. '04 EC250 (the kids) (he can do his own mods haha!) |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Still havnt managed to get it to work its bled as best I can however still feels spongy and is binding a little???
|
#7
|
|||
|
|||
there's a ton of threads on this. It is a PITA. Make sure the adjuster on the lever is screwed out all the way to allow the piston full disengagement. It can keep air trapped if not.
Most of my success comes from standard bleeding (using the lever to pump and the bleed screw to let the air out) but combined with back-bleeding by using a syringe and forcing the fluid from the caliper back up through into the reservoir. It will also help if you compress (seat) the caliper piston fully into the caliper. That will also help force any air back up through the line and out the reservoir. I once had a trials bike that I ended up assembling the whole assembly (caliper, hose, and master cylinder) in a bucket using 2 gallons brake fluid in order to get it to work right. On another note, has it ever worked since you bought the bike? Some people have had issues with line flex and a spongy feel and changed to a newer model brake hose as they don't swell under pressure as much.
__________________
jeff '00 XC250 (mine) LTS front and rear suspension, power valve cover, carb jet kit and rear chain glide, RB Designs head mod, BRP tall triple clamp, backyard foot-peg lowering conversion. '04 EC250 (the kids) (he can do his own mods haha!) |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Thanks jostby ill keep trying yes it worked before the wire snapped. Also thinking of a nice shiny new hel braided line or is there any other lines out there you'd reccomend cheers luke
|
#9
|
||||
|
||||
Try using a small screwdriver to push the plunger in the housing all the way in when bleeding all the air out, as the lever won't fully depress the plunger.
__________________
02 300ec- 50mm Marzocchi cc forks, 2010 plastic. Now a 250cc. |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Could'a sworn I had a rear brake light switch... | motogroove | Enduro Electrical & Wiring | 9 | 05-26-2011 11:31 PM |
Banjo brake light switch | Todd5774 | Enduro Electrical & Wiring | 1 | 03-03-2011 07:10 PM |
light ans switch | vgstef | Canada | 1 | 02-24-2011 07:31 PM |
Light Switch question | Jeffro820 | General Discussions & Announcements | 4 | 10-31-2009 11:53 PM |