#21
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Quote:
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#22
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Tried 178 - lean, 180 - lean, no matter the clip position, except full raised not tested.
Im thinking either 182 or 185, which I dont have to test. Also, next ritcher needle from CEK at middle openings is CCK and at middle to top throtthle is DCK. So deciding between needle or jets. Have whole range from 168 to 180. Pilot jet, I believe, could still be lowered from 38, being tad ritch at idle, but at the moment I'm keeping it, since all but idle is on the lean side, so I get enough fuel at least on small openings. Of course inconsistent idle is still present, from barely running, to high idle. Both idle speeds would be acceptable, I they wouldn't change back and forth. Fine tuning (idle knob and air) can't make it run any other rpm than super slow or tad high. Which ever of the two speeds I adjust it to idle, it isn't fixed, but again it autoselects speed, based on bike inclination and other undefined parameters. |
#23
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Sounds like you have an air leak somewhere? That would explain the erratic idle. Seems to me you should be in the ballpark with the CEK at higher clip positions and with the richer jets. I just moved to clip position #4 on the CEK as it starting to warm up here and bike was starting to run rich.
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#24
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Since topic is old but alive, I refreshed top and bottom end, all gaskets, seals.
It's winter time here, so cold. I'll post my settings, for better understanding of the whole picture. New wossner piston 0.5mm base gasket (previously 1mm, and before that 1.3mm) 1.45mm squish (moved it closer to the upper suggested limit 1.1 - 1.5, as advised by tuner) 12.7:1 compression, head modded AS1 PJ 38 MJ 178 CEK#3 and #4 #3 makes it pretty unrideable in slow, steep, technical stuff, but in open it rolls. #4 transforms it into excellent crawler, pretty much like a 4T, little wheelspin, tractable up to 1/2 throtthle. Snow riding 3rd, 4th gear, uphill, mid rpms, it just excels, with little handlebar pull, very predictable, with much grunt. Bike clears quickly when going on pipe after prolongued low rpm cold riding. In winter a thermostat would be better, to keep some heat. Still some carb fiddling is needed, as bike is tad rich down low. Rarely ride it pinned for extended time, could be lean at top rpm's, but no need to fix it atm, as we mostly ride slow to mid rpms with occasional bursts uphill. |
#25
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Quote:
https://youtu.be/9SGYsSt971g Good tourqe but away too rich in 1/8-11 /4 whit no spoonge?!! |
#26
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Quote:
https://youtu.be/9SGYsSt971g Good tourqe but away too rich in 1/8-11 /4 but whit no spoonge?!! And why N2xx aren't good? |
#27
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Z is the needle diameter of the straight section of the needle. It covers idle to 1/8-1/4 depending on the needles taper profile. Sizes range from:
Nxxx needle diameters D=2.685mm E=2.695mm (JD Blue) F=2.705mm G= 2.715 H= 2.725 W/I=2.735 (JD Red) J= 2.745 K=2.755 In 1/2 clip variations from leanest to richest they are... N89x=leanest N3Cx N3Ex N8Rx N2Zx N4Dx N3Vx N4Ax N6Mx=richest So N2ZW#3 is on par with N3EW#2. |
#28
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So my n2zw too lean. I will try one again whit n1ef ,I want to stay away from lean part. I have also NOZH.
I will receive next jetts in about 3 weeks. Tnx Jakobi once again. |
#29
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Witch pilot an main to use with n1ef?
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#30
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throw that bloody n1xx needle away, will only cause trouble. i have a 09 and had a 250 and 300. im at sea level and love the n3XXneedles, pilots are around 38, with 178-180 mains, the older carbies tend to need a slightly richer setting.
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