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Enduro Electrical & Wiring Lighting, Ignition, Wiring, Plugs, etc.


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  #51  
Old 02-10-2008, 01:27 PM
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slocalspode slocalspode is offline
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True. You can no longer get an "off-road" bike converted here in Ca.
That ended on Jan. 31 2004 for all bikes manufactured in 2003 and
earlier.
The bike I was riding is my 1998 EC250 that has had a plate since
around 2000 or so. I do get lots of looks when I ride it on the street.
I also get the chance to meet some of LA's finest every now and then.
All of them (so far) have been super nice. They just ask to check the
registration and we spend a few minutes chatting about how cool a
2-stroke is to ride on the street. It is quite a conversation piece and
a good way to meet other cool motorcycle riders.
Jeff,
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
GMP wrote:
Can you actually still get a dual sported EC through CA inspection so its
"fully street legal"? I didn't think that was possible anymore. Here we can't
even get a plate for the newer bikes so the conversions are pointless.
Just the 2-stroke sound will draw cops like a magnet


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  #52  
Old 02-12-2008, 03:58 AM
Leon_gasgas Leon_gasgas is offline
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Hi!

The 98 EC produces more electric power than the newer bikes. It has a Ducati energia system (internal and external coils) as the new TMs. I had one for 3 years. Great bike.

Now to complicate things even more about this DC case. EMX suggests that when you use their dc reg on a 2 stroke KTM 2007 with a 2K3 stator (without floating mod) the wiring should be as follows:

The yellow wire to ground. The white wire to one of the two yellow wires of the rec/reg. The other yellow wire from the reg to ground. Then the red and black wires from regulator to battery. Is this safe for the stator? Do you get this way the max power from the stator? Can somebody comment on that? Steve?

Leon
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  #53  
Old 02-13-2008, 09:44 PM
steve davies steve davies is offline
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Talking yep

It seems to me they are trying to float the dc ground of the battery (dc). But i would really like to see the whole diagram of what they are doing just to be sure. You can run both systems on the bike as long as the grounds do not come in contact with one another. Acouple of treads ago there were drawings that show just that,. Yes if that is what they are doing it does work and it an ok way to do it.
steve
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  #54  
Old 02-14-2008, 12:41 AM
Leon_gasgas Leon_gasgas is offline
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Today I will test this configuration. I rearranged the wires but still I have the yellow wire tapped, not grounded. Yes it is the same as in the diagram you mentioned with the dc ground floated. I wanted to ask because I wasn't sure if connecting to ground one of the two stator wires is safe for the stator.

One guy commented on that and talked about the white wire being at the "head" of the coils offering max power and the yellow wire offering just enough power for the oem lights. That is probably why this white wire existed... He measured 7A on a KTM at just above idle with this configuration.

Let's see now if I can run both hid headlight and helmet lights tonight...

Thank you for the reply!

Leon
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  #55  
Old 02-15-2008, 12:22 AM
Leon_gasgas Leon_gasgas is offline
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Default Don't ground any stator wire!

Hi!

Of course you don't ground any external (yellow or white) stator wire. Just tape the one you don't use. I tried only the white wire yesterday and the theory is true. It gives the max power of the stator. Both hid headlight and hid helmet lights (around 70W load) worked great! Even during slow technical rock gardens the stator offers just enough power for these lights. It is close to the limit there seeing the flashing of the trail tech helmet lights' switch but some fake gassing was enough to keep the battery charged.

So, once again, don't do any stator mod if you have the EC model and want to run hid lights.

Leon
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  #56  
Old 12-18-2009, 11:10 PM
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Ok , As I am about to do this mod I thought I would recap on this thread.
To me(from what I have read), it does not matter which way you go re floating or not floating the ground.There is no difference in longevity or end result?
Which is recommended for an Ec300 two stroke with a capacitor instead of a battery?
The stock stator should be ok to run it?
Thanks guys ,
Mark
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  #57  
Old 12-19-2009, 12:24 PM
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Anyone???
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  #58  
Old 03-03-2010, 04:20 PM
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Hey ya'all. My turn to re-visit this post.
I am about the try and get DC from the
stator coil on my 1990 KDX200. It is quite
different that the multi-pole stator like the
2k2 and 2k3 that we have on our GasGas
bikes.
It is a single pole for the lighting circuit
and a smaller single pole for the ignition.
The stator has three wires exiting from the
side cover. Two for the CDI and coil and
one yellow wire for the AC lights.
What do you think? Can I get away without
doing the floating ground modification using
the wiring diagram below?
I e-mailed TrailTech and his short answer was, "NO"
you can not get DC from a stator unless
you do the floating ground modification.
A couple of hours web searching did not
provide me with an answer other that what
the Tech told me.
Thanks, I value your suggestions.
Jeff, So. Cal.
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  #59  
Old 03-04-2010, 07:30 AM
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I disagree with Trailtech. This will work in theory, as long as the grounds are isolated there will be no problems. The difference is that your DC/battery ground must float from the chassis (AC gnd). This topic was beaten to death before. As an alternative, I would think it would be simple to add an additional gnd wire to float the AC winding if you wish to gnd the DC system to the chassis.

The issue I see is the output winding capacity. I suspect its very limited, probably like a 2K-2, so don't expect to run much. Remember, with a DC conversion there is much less power available to the load using the same winding than the straight AC system. If its light your after, I'd look into the LED lights I reviewed in amother post. 10W @ 12VDC, and the light output approaches a 55W halogen. Certainly way brighter than a stock KDX light.
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  #60  
Old 03-04-2010, 07:45 AM
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Thank you for the reassurance. Unless I find out otherwise. The diagram from
the above post will be how I'll wire up the KDX.
The bike had a complete restoration a couple of years ago. At that time I
sent the stator off to Rickey Stator for a re-wind and upgrade. I think he
said it is supposed to put out around 60-70 Watts. I have not started the
bike since the rebuild, so I can not confirm if there is any more juice
in there or not.
I plan to stick with the stock headlight shell and reflector. It stock bulb is
a 30/30W. I'd like to try and increase that if possible. I have been looking
for a replacement bulb, it is a type "D". I wonder if a halogen H6M would
be too hot and melt the headlight shell? Any thoughts?
Heck, for my intended purpose. The stock headlight would be fine.
I do not (plan) to do much or any night riding with it. It is going to become
a SuperMoto play toy.
Thanks for your thoughts and advise.
Jeff
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