#1
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from ktm to gas gas
hi guys,
have switched from a ktm 450 to a brand new gas gas xc 300 (currently on its way to my local dealer). just a few questions for you guys, Who do you use for accessories? cheap to ship in to nz or local? im after a decent bash plate and rad gaurds. Oils, do you stick to gro or other brands? im used to motul and motorex. Finally, the best way to run in the new 300? heat cycles or the new trend im hearing? Thrash it of the stand? Cheers Nick |
#2
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This and that.
Use whichever fluids you have available (quality of course). Mix at a healthy ratio (you determine). Jet the bike up (much reading). Enjoy it! I use a bit of heat cycle and thrashing. Quick start and light ride to check for coolant leaks etc. Then load the engine up. It'll let you know when it wants to rev. |
#3
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It's a tough dirtbike that needs about the same attention as your KTM. THe biggest thing you will notice apart from the missing 2 strokes is the chassis. The kato has a steeper steering head angle which combined with a lack of squat from the pds system makes for a quick turning bike through the bars but feels a bit less stable in ruts and berms and at pace. You'll think the gg turns sloppy until you realise that it turns as good without massive human weight transfer just like a jap bike, then you'll get your head round why this is a great bike. Cheers.
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Oz Current. 2015 ec300r estart, 98 RM 125 2013 Ec300r 2011 Ec300e 2009 Husky TE310 1982 XR500 Honda 1981 KE100 Kawasaki 1978 GT80 Yamaha |
#4
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Steel and aluminum have different expansion rates. I'm a fan of introducing the two through heat cycles. Two or three should seat things up nicely. I also think that smoothing out all the new sharp edges is better done slowly. Plenty of time for flogging.
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2011 EC300 Six Days 2010 EC300 Nambotin Replica |
#5
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cheers guys, some good info. still hunting around for some good deals on bash plate and rad gaurds
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#6
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Stock bashplate is alright, or so I think. I prefer it to the aluminium force one I used on a 2010 model.
I've always liked carbon pipe guards. Balance between weight and some level of protection - of course they aren't indestructable. I've use P3, but would recommend the propower units (they are a site sponsor, and Aussie product). Few good rad guards around. I'll let others chime in on that. I'm using Force, but I'm sure better are around (also site sponsors). |
#7
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the stock skid plate is ok, but id like some protection for the water puup cover etc. i see most guys use the carbon pipe gaurds. the force braces seem ok but how do they hold up on side impct?
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#8
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Went for a quick run in today, three heat cycles. Checked fluids etc. Will go out again tomorrow and one light ride, then will open her up. Feels like a nice bike, a bit more time and we will be inseparable.
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#9
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Sadly Linton at DAS is no longer a GG dealer but go see him if you want suspension work or anything other than genuine parts he is still keen and a font of knowledge.
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'07 EC300 GG '14 TXT250 GG '? 496 CPI Cheetah RZ/RGV hybrid '22 765 Street Triple RS '21 XTrainer '69 Stinger T125 Suzuki '23 TRS 250RR (it's a Trials thing) |
#10
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I have used the axp and the Hyde sump guards and of the two I would say the Hyde is better (once you have done the tweaking required for all Hyde products) protection is similar and it lasts well
I would however really like to give the TM one a try
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2003 txt250 Pro 2013 Ossa 280i |
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