I've about had it with Shivers.

[Tlineman]

Managed to sneak away from the kids this afternoon and try the new valving out. Definite improvement, but I don't think I'm done. I started out with the rebound 12 clicks out and cranked them in, in increments of 3. I wound up liking the forks the most with the clickers all the way in. I'm going to try to install one stock spring back in and reduce my spring preload on the other. Just want to try and take out some more of the jarring back to the bars at lower speeds.

I'm currently running 0.46's and there is roughly 5-6mm of preload, too much I know.....

I'm gonna do the spring thing first, before i get back into the valving. I also might lower the oil height a touch. Currently running 120mm. Do you guys measure oil height with or without the spring spacer installed?

GMP, what do you think of changing out the second 22 x 0.1mm shim in the rebound stack for a 21 x 0.15mm shim. According to my charts, a 0.15mm shim is over 3x stiffer than a 0.1mm shim.

[GMP]

So what your effectively saying now, being its best with the rebound clicker all the way in, is that you need more low speed rebound, OR, you need the stack to come into play faster. This is what all free bleed does, including the clicker, it just adjusts when the valving becomes active. In the GG fork, the free bleed hole and the bypass (clicker, low speed valve) work in parallel. You might like the bleed hole mod(blocked), that basally makes it just like a Husky Zoke piston. What that does is give greater sensitivity to the clicker and allows the stack to become active faster.

You can try the 21x.15 or add another 22x.1, but at some point in fork rebound speed, your on free bleed only and no amount of additional low speed shimming will change things.

[Ud_luz]

Originally Posted by GMP

So what your effectively saying now, being its best with the rebound clicker all the way in, is that you need more low speed rebound, OR, you need the stack to come into play faster. This is what all free bleed does, including the clicker, it just adjusts when the valving becomes active. In the GG fork, the free bleed hole and the bypass (clicker, low speed valve) work in parallel. You might like the bleed hole mod(blocked), that basally makes it just like a Husky Zoke piston. What that does is give greater sensitivity to the clicker and allows the stack to become active faster.

You can try the 21x.15 or add another 22x.1, but at some point in fork rebound speed, your on free bleed only and no amount of additional low speed shimming will change things.

What is the bleed hole mod? I'm not a suspension guru.

[GMP]

There is typically a bleed hole in the rebound piston on the GG Zokes. Some guys have plugged this with epoxy/JB Weld. I never did it, but I've worked on, valved, and ridden Husky Zokes which have the same piston with no bleed hole.

[Ud_luz]

Does this affect the low speed harshness?

[GMP]

By itself, I can't say. I don't think its fair to compare the same fork with slightly different valving, different springs, on a different bike. All I can say is that the rebound was less of a problem on the Husky. This, like most suspension setups, is also subject to personal preference. I think the reason that the stock piston seems fine to me is that I ride on very trashy trails all the time, lots of small stuff between the big stuff, no smooth dirt. The "active" feel of light dampening in the start of the stroke seems to work well, and with the stiffer HS stack, the nasty spike after a deep compression is controlled. As long as the fork stays settled for a turn, and it seems to be OK with the light preload.

[Tlineman]

Interesting stuff. I've noticed the free bleed hole but never considered blocking it. JB weld isn't very reversible stuff if you don't like the mod unfortunately. I'll keep ya posted, likely gonna be some time till I can sneak back out on the bike but I'm gonna try the spring mod first. According to some of the other members here that combo of one stock spring and a 0.46 was a well liked mix.

[GMP]

Well stock is .42 so a .42/.46 would be a .44. I have .44s and like them, but I'm 185 lbs now. .46s may be a good buy because if your faster you may like them better. Its like getting two sets of springs for the price of one. Spring on the stiff side but keep that preload very low.

Yeah, hold off on blocking the bleed hole for now. You have only started to experiment.

[CACTUSREID]

tlineman.cactusreid here. just a fwiw here, i'm 195 lbs before gear,and a self proclaimed b rider,and i put a set of 46 springs in my forks,and a 5.6 on my rear shock. it works way better than the stock 42's and 5.2 on the rear. riding higher in the stroke makes for a way nicer ride! there-my 2 cents,carry on,this is a very informative discussion.

[Tlineman]

Originally Posted by GMP

Well stock is .42 so a .42/.46 would be a .44. I have .44s and like them, but I'm 185 lbs now. .46s may be a good buy because if your faster you may like them better. Its like getting two sets of springs for the price of one. Spring on the stiff side but keep that preload very low.

Yeah, hold off on blocking the bleed hole for now. You have only started to experiment.

Sorry, should've been more clear, I'm already running 0.46's and have been since I started tinkering.