2 Thumbs Up on 48 CC Zokes!

[Jakobi]

Originally Posted by twowheels

You can think of the PFP as simply an additional spring aiding in the support of the front end of the bike. It's adjustment allows for easy external adjustment of front end stiffness. That's one of the reasons a 48 Marzocchi PFP fork with 0.42s feels way stiffer than an 48 Sachs OC or 45 Marzocchi OC.

Not to mention an Australian tuner actually measured the rate of a set of springs out of these as closer to .44 than .42, but what you say still applies.

[AZRickD]

I upped my shock spring to 5.4 for my pounds and sag needs but was advised to keep the front at stock (which I have).

[Bandit9]

Originally Posted by AZRickD

I upped my shock spring to 5.4 for my pounds and sag needs but was advised to keep the front at stock (which I have).

My guy said .48 in front and 6.2 rear for a 6'1. 235lb Fast B/Slow A. I'm only getting 18mm Free Sag and 106mm Rider Sag. So I really need a 6.3/6.4. To me, .48 and 6.4 is unbalanced. Should I bump up to .50 on fork when I install the 6.4? Or does the PFP allow me to get away with .48's?

[celler]

Originally Posted by Simmo737

I was laying in bed last night with a Christmas level of red wine on board thinking about pfp adjustment and why gasgas valving has no float on the mid valve. I think the pfp is a great tuning kit for getting a wide range of stock settings working. I have been avoiding preload on this bike and have changed my thoughts, I have .48 springs, I had been running zero pfp, 2 mm preload and clickers c10 r 11, I had never gone the other way. I think no float means the stack s operational at anything more than zero movement and the pfp pretty well determines how divey you want the bike. I wound in 2 pfp and went in to 9r and went out to 18c and I had the same amount of brake dive and was using a lot more stroke on square edges and the bike is a lot less spikey, I went in to 2.5 and the dive reduced, bit more follow the ground feel but not obtrusive and the same lush highspeed feel, this all just around my 2.5 acre block and dirt roads so I would need a days ride to really fiddle and verify but I think it proves that the pfp is better than just a spring preload as you maintain the valving characteristics. Maybe gg or zoke no what they are doing with that mv.

I have found I too like some preload from on the pfp. When I upgraded to .46 springs I set them up with 3mm preload and thought I would try 0 pfp. I seemed to lose stability and be more divey than the stock setup. So with more testing I ended up at .46 springs, 3 mm preload, 2 turns of pfp, c20 and r15. I ride terrain that is really rocky and hacked up but relatively smooth as far as bumps/whoops. If I would ride in sand with whoops I'm sure I would dial it a little different. I'll be doing more testing with increased pfp. The forks were quite good stock and I really have not quite happy and was really busy trying to get my KTM forks to work acceptably

[Simmo737]

Originally Posted by celler

I have found I too like some preload from on the pfp. When I upgraded to .46 springs I set them up with 3mm preload and thought I would try 0 pfp. I seemed to lose stability and be more divey than the stock setup. So with more testing I ended up at .46 springs, 3 mm preload, 2 turns of pfp, c20 and r15. I ride terrain that is really rocky and hacked up but relatively smooth as far as bumps/whoops. If I would ride in sand with whoops I'm sure I would dial it a little different. I'll be doing more testing with increased pfp. The forks were quite good stock and I really have not quite happy and was really busy trying to get my KTM forks to work acceptably

Well that's a positive, sounds like we could be on to it.

[Jakobi]

Reading old threads.

Revalved mine and looking forward to riding the setup. Always ran 2 turns in on the PFP, and with the changes immediately noticed a much firmer/precise front end. I made some pretty major changes in all the stacks though, and also tightened up the float from .65 to .4mm.

I found the stock setup very plush, but also vaige and would kind of just wander in whichever direction they wanted. Didn't really deflect, or wallow too much, but found front tyre placement took more effort than I prefer. Now it feels sharp! So much so I think I may end up moving the forks through the triples a touch more as well.

[AZRickD]

What's your new stack.

[Jakobi]

I won't post the complete ins and outs of it, and its only the first round of testing as well so could be quite a bit off.

Mid - kept the bleed shim, dropped the check plate design of the .15's and rebuilt a more tapered and traditional stack.

Rebound - dropped the bleed shim, and used it as a crossover to make a 2 stage stack. Added in some more HSR.

Base - again removed bleed shim and the randomness of the clunky thick shims and moved on to build a tapered 2 stage stack with a crossover for some small bump compliance.

[AZRickD]

Got it. I added a bleed shim to the Comp and removed one from the Rebound. No progression work done on the shim stack yet.

I have PFP all the way soft and the Comp clickers all the way soft and the Rebound all the way slow. Still not soft enough. It is a little firm on rocks and I think I detect a bit of a mid-stroke spike. . Rebound is near the ballpark but still needs more.

I love how these forks won't bottom out on my usual cased mini jumps and G-outs. I definitely don't want to lose that feature.

In the same boat with the shock. I will get it retuned in a week or three.

[Jakobi]

I'd love to get a little seat time on it before heading out for a big ride but I don't think I'll get the chance. Poor clearance under the bars to access the PFP and I haven't made any tools up so I'll be sticking with it at 2 turns initially. I'll give a more detailed report in a few days. I'm also using a 15.9cSt fluid.