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Enduro Intake/Carburetion - 2 stroke Jetting, Reeds, Air Filters, etc.


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  #11  
Old 10-08-2020, 12:27 AM
Louis069 Louis069 is offline
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Linton is the man if you want suspension done. Forks are pretty harsh for our conditions and deflect off tree roots. He has been evolving revalve for these.
I haven't worked out what forks I have, I haven't been able to find anything like them on here. They do have dirt action services sticker on them though so my guess is that one of the previous owners had them done by him.


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  #12  
Old 10-08-2020, 02:24 AM
Doc Brown Doc Brown is offline
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Hi Louis, yes NEDW will work WAY better than the N1EF. Start in clip 3 and let the main and pilot as they are. It will require tweaking the air screw though.

If you don't use a lot of WOT you can change to a 170 or 172 main jet, but that is fine tuning, we are chasing plug fouling here :-) And don't forget that if it runs leaner at WOT plus the hotter spark plug can be dangerous.

When you feel it is still too rich down low you can go as far as 2,75 turns out on the air screw. GasGas says that is the border line to gor for the next bigger pilot jet. But it would be strange if you need the AS that far out with the smaller 38 pj.
Remember that dropping the needle will also lean it out down low but it will have ab effect on the mid range. If you have time it would be worth to try the 40 pj with the needle in #3.

If nothing helps check the needle jet for wear. If that is still good you can try to use different gas and oil. It sounds weird but I had a fouling problem caused by a specific oil.

Good Luck ;-)
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Old 10-08-2020, 01:25 PM
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I would go fatter on the pilot and turn down the idle. This will better separate the circuits in the carb. Going this way - the airscrew will have more effect and it will be easier to "dial in".

If you go too lean on pilot - then you crank up idle to supply more fuel -which also supplies more air - moving flow away from the pilot circuit. This is referred to as "pulling over". Now the needle/slide position (idle screw setting) are determining your mixture right off the bottom instead of the pilot/airscrew.

This is the problem with the n1ef or n3ef needle - you end up going leaner on pilot - turning up idle to supply more fuel - still looking for even leaner pilot to fix issue that is elsewhere. When they don't make a pilot jet any smaller - you know you got a problem. ;-)

I would look at what jetting comes oem in the suzuki and use that as a baseline for choice of pilot jet. e.g. in my old 2001 I used a 42 and rode very tight woods and it was "clean". This was with a LTR jetting kit which used a leaner needle.


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Old 10-19-2020, 07:06 PM
Louis069 Louis069 is offline
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I installed the NEDW needle on clip 2 a couple weeks ago and have had a couple rides on it and it still is running rich, choking/loading up on a br7es plug and hasn't improved on fuel efficiency noticeably. After reading a thread on here about worn needle jets they describe the same symptoms as im having. eg. poor milage, exessive smoking, fouling plugs. Seems like you were right F5

The issue is that the stic metering block is $398USD including shipping which when converted to nzd is $600. If anyone knows if there is a cheaper solution to this problem like maybe a new carburettor? Not sure where would be best to source of these though. Thanks
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Old 10-19-2020, 08:10 PM
Louis069 Louis069 is offline
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Just found this carburettor https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/m...0?bof=idp6f2akam i correct in saying that i could put the metering block from this carb into my old pwk38 AS1.
Or even just use the whole new carb even though it is 1mm bigger and i also noticed it isnt a quad vent/airstriker so not sure if it will be as good hence why i was wondering if i could use just the metering block.
Would this be a good option? Thanks again
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Old 10-19-2020, 10:19 PM
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Um, yes you could but geez thats expensive.
And I don't know if will entirely sure all meter blocks are the same.

PM me and ill send you my spare carb as experiment. I put a KX carb metering block in it.
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Old 10-20-2020, 03:23 AM
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PM me I have a jet block that?s virtually new
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Old 10-20-2020, 10:28 AM
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Do we know that it's not sucking transmission fluid through the right side crank seal? You can do a pressure leak test pretty easy if you plug the exhaust and intake, and make a small fixture with a schraeder valve to pressurize the system.

if it were my bike, i'd start there.
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Old 10-20-2020, 01:44 PM
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Do we know that it's not sucking transmission fluid through the right side crank seal? You can do a pressure leak test pretty easy if you plug the exhaust and intake, and make a small fixture with a schraeder valve to pressurize the system.

if it were my bike, i'd start there.
I thought about that but I ruled it out because in the 10 monthes I have owned it it hasn't burned any transmission oil. When my brothers seal went on his ktm it was drinking about 50ml to 100ml every ride and it came on very suddenly. But it is another thing to consider
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Old 10-20-2020, 01:49 PM
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PM me I have a jet block that?s virtually new
PM sent thanks
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