#31
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I've had to beat a torx into the drain bolt in the past when it got rounded out. I try and keep a couple replacement on hand and replace as soon as they get a bit iffy. Also replace the crush washer often.
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2018 EC 300 |
#32
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I did the allen head to torque bit, but no cigar. She was seized on the back side, and even with a flat blade slot cut into it there was nothing to be had with the impact until I got the whole housing off and onto a solid bench (after spraying some penetrating oil in from the back).
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#33
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Hey Jake, why aren't you running an alloy impeller?
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2011 GG EC 300E, 1994 CR 250R, 1984 RM 250 E, 2022 Ranger 300 "If you stop eating donuts you will live 3 years longer. It's just 3 more years that you want a donut." ―Comedian Lewis Black "I think best when I have a wrench in my hands." Soichiro Honda "Dreams are messages from the deep." -Unknown Sardaukar |
#34
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They don't fit in the new slimmer water pump cover without modification to allow clearance. I have one here from checkpoint which I lapped down the fins some, but it was a waste of time. Need to recess from the back to allow the fins to remain useful while still allowing clearance. I've had no issues with cooling/failure with over 300hrs on stock impellors (granted they don't also have clearance issues).
Simple enough explanation? |
#35
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Tinkered around some more today. Pictures and progress will go up later.
Quick question for those who have worked their spooging silencers (Simmo, Trev, Steve, etc). What exactly did you do with them? Just trim it back and make it shorter, or did you remove the turbine core? Its easy enough to cut the silencer back, and just shuffle the internals back the same amount, but I don't think that will do much in terms of stopping the drool. The packing itself wasn't that great, but I don't know if it was that bad either. Loads of buildup mainly in the back section where the air flow is doubled back on itself, which then drools down along the bottom of the packing before making its way out at the join between the silencer and pipe. Ideally I'd like to stop the spooge. I'm considering leaving out the section of pipe and plate between the turbine and the end cap which will likely just result in more spooge getting blown out the back of the pipe, but seems like a better option than acumulating it until it overflows. |
#36
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This thread makes me feel pretty glum about how I treat my machine.
I tend to do things one job at a time instead of all at once, but the level of meticulousness you show is impressive! |
#37
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Quote:
Its the bikes birthday! Have to treat it nice. Suspensions been over serviced as I've been valving both ends and working on improving it. I still do periodic/running maintenance/repairs as they are required, but when riding weekly its just do what needs to be done and ride. Giving it an annual going over just helps tick all the boxes, makes it feel like a new bike, and lets you have the confidence its going to last another year without issue. I have some spare time now, so its what works! |
#38
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Jake I've trimmed two of the Q stealths now and both times I've cut the silencer down to just after the 2nd hanger bracket. Removed the turbine core and just mated the end cap up to the through pipe. Works a treat no more spooge and I didn't notice any change in performance one way or the other.
I'm about to cut down the one on the '14. Although I need to straighten the pipe first, it's tweaked itself so that it rests against the airbox and has almost melted through. Not good.
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Current: 2014 Gas Gas EC300R _____________________________________________ Previous: 2011 Gas Gas EC300 ELC 2004 KTM 300 EXC |
#39
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That sounds like some info I'm after. Any jetting changes after? I was thinking of leaning the clip halfa after seeing the piston wash.
I've cut 4.5" off it today, which as you say is just after the rear hanger. I think I'll follow your lead and leave the TC out of it. Later on its not hard to cut the main core down some more and drill the 2 holes to rivet the arrestor back in. On my 2013 the pipe would also make slight contact against the airbox. I just used a few washers and shimmed it out/away. All good now. 2010 did the same thing too. |
#40
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Cleaned the carb
Installed carb and then the shock. Torqued up all the swingarm/linkage/shock mounts as well as the engine mounts. Pulled the spacers and seals on the rear wheel, cleaned, inspected, repacked over with grease and reinstalled. Axle cleaned up and slides in and out nice and easy. Happy times down the back of the bike. |
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