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Enduro Engine - 2 stroke Cylinder, Piston, Tranny, Bearings, Clutch, Pipes & Silencers, etc.


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  #31  
Old 09-28-2008, 05:44 PM
AZRickD AZRickD is offline
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Here's a macro pic of the clutch fingers...



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  #32  
Old 09-28-2008, 06:17 PM
AZRickD AZRickD is offline
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Here's the hub

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  #33  
Old 09-28-2008, 06:29 PM
AZRickD AZRickD is offline
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Close up of the finger tips...

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  #34  
Old 09-28-2008, 08:49 PM
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GMP GMP is offline
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That looks fine. If the plates and springs are OK then start looking at the master/slave for a leak that allows pressure to bleed off, reducing travel and increasing drag. Bleed first of course.
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  #35  
Old 09-28-2008, 09:41 PM
AZRickD AZRickD is offline
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The steels are fine. The fibers are out of spec (just under the limit) and the springs are out of spec (a bit more than just under the limit).

If I could buy a set of fiber plates and keep my steels, I would.

I need to get the frictions and springs for sure. Then bleed the system. Good to go.

I don't know if GoFasters can get me the parts in time to get me off to the Camp-n-Ride by Friday morning, so I might just go local (MonkeyButtParts.com) and do Moose or equivalent.

Any detractors?

Rick
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  #36  
Old 09-30-2008, 10:57 PM
AZRickD AZRickD is offline
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I've installed the DP clutch kit (next-day service from MonkeyButtParts). I noticed that one of the steels had a half-inch section on the outer radius that was flat (like a machining error). I decided to use one of my old steels instead.

I bled the line using the syringe technique. Using the syringe to pump clean fluid back up to the reservoir does wonders to flush out hidden bubblets. My old fluid was amber (old). Nice to get new stuff in there.

With the new fresh fluid, bleed, steels, fibers, and springs, the clutch lever gives me more resistance. I watched the plates move in and out a few milimeters (I don't know what standard is).

I'm going to fire it up and see if it actually works. I'm going to defy the GasGas common wisdom and use a 50/50 of ATF and synth Rotella.

Let's hope I didn't screw something up.
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  #37  
Old 10-01-2008, 07:30 AM
WoodsRider WoodsRider is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZRickD View Post
I'm going to defy the GasGas common wisdom and use a 50/50 of ATF and synth Rotella.
I ran 50/50 Type F ATF and 10W-30 in my old '98 EC250. That bike was still on the original clutch when I sold it in April of '07.
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  #38  
Old 10-01-2008, 09:27 AM
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I run Amsoil 0W-40 with good results. Really helps in colder weather.
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  #39  
Old 10-01-2008, 12:22 PM
AZRickD AZRickD is offline
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I fired it up and took it easy up and down my street. So far so good. I can kick start it in gear and it doesn't drag. The clutch lever modulates well. Smooth shifting. And neutral is a bit more positive (Before the swap I sometimes had to search for it more than I like).

Good thing I took it easy. As I was putt-putting down the street I heard a ting-ting noise. My axle wrench had just fallen off the nut as I had been riding around with it all that time. I decided that discretion required me to coast into the garage to see what else I had forgotten to do.

I'm just not very good with tools.
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  #40  
Old 10-07-2008, 05:36 PM
Hapnin Hapnin is offline
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I'd like some more info on this "syringe technique" for filling and bleeding the clutch res.

Thanks.
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