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Enduro Engine - 2 stroke Cylinder, Piston, Tranny, Bearings, Clutch, Pipes & Silencers, etc.


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  #21  
Old 02-21-2019, 10:40 AM
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gasgasman gasgasman is offline
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#19 is aluminum.
The remove the powder coating on the mounting points, also at the subframe to frame mounting points.


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  #22  
Old 02-21-2019, 01:45 PM
Wypipo Wypipo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gasgasman View Post
#19 is aluminum.
The remove the powder coating on the mounting points, also at the subframe to frame mounting points.
So remove all of the powder coating on the back of part 19?
Here is where I have the neutral connected straight from the battery. Is this right?
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  #23  
Old 02-24-2019, 07:02 PM
Wypipo Wypipo is offline
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I have 13.3v across the battery

I have 13.3 from the battery positive to the starter mount bracket where I have sanded all the points down to bare metal and ran the ground from the battery.

I have 13.3 from the battery postive to the negative of the starter relay

Starting to get pretty frustrating, I have tried everything. Next I will pull the motor cover off to see if the bearing has seized, but the bike will ?restart? after it is warm so I don?t think that is the problem.
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  #24  
Old 02-24-2019, 07:46 PM
Wypipo Wypipo is offline
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I also have 13.3 from battery positive to this side of the ignition coil and bare metal on the frame. I have noticed some people run a wire from here to the starter mount bracket. Also the only negative lead from the battery is to the starter mount bracket. Not sure what else I could do. I have full battery voltage from the postive terminal of my battery to all of the negative/ground spots in the circuit.
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  #25  
Old 02-25-2019, 04:54 AM
fred99999au fred99999au is offline
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I pulled the stator cover off today and removed the bearing and bevel gear that the motor engages with. One bearing shield is damaged from the factory, and the bearing is notchy. Can make out the brand through the damage on the shield. Rust spots on some of the gears.

The second shaft bearing feels dry and notchy.

Will remove the second shaft tomorrow and see what the bearing feels like.

Of course, none of this relates to an RK Tek Head.
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  #26  
Old 02-25-2019, 01:29 PM
Wypipo Wypipo is offline
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Will I need any special tools to get to these bearings?

It looks like I will need a new gasket even just to take the cover off to check?
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  #27  
Old 02-25-2019, 02:23 PM
fred99999au fred99999au is offline
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yes, the gasket fell to bits, so you will most likely need a new one.

I ground down a caged nut from a 19 inch rack cabinet to fit between the horizontal shaft and the bevel gear and used a washer stack and bolt to pull that beating out.

Looks like the other bearing and shaft might be a light press fit as well. No idea how I am getting that out yet. Going to see a mate at an engimineering place today.
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  #28  
Old 02-25-2019, 03:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wypipo View Post
...if the bearing has seized, but the bike will ?restart? after it is warm so I don?t think that is the problem.
That has to do with thermal expansion. Once the engine is warm the metal expands, which reduces the drag on the bearing so it can turn easier, hence allowing starts when hot but not cold.
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  #29  
Old 02-25-2019, 03:24 PM
Wypipo Wypipo is offline
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Sounds above my level of capabilities. I wonder if a ktm dealer would be able to work on it because of the similar problems they were having? I don?t have any gasgas dealers nearby but there is a ktm shop a couple hours away
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  #30  
Old 02-25-2019, 08:41 PM
Wypipo Wypipo is offline
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Also will replacing the bearings be a permanent fix? Or will it eventually go back to the way it is now? Everything was brand new when I bought the bike so it seems to me like replacing these bearings will just make it brand new again but the same shitty design, so what is different after replacing them to stop it from seizing again?
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