rekluse setup questions..and jetting!

[stainlesscycle]

so i've been through several settings on my rekluse, none of which i'm 100% happy with. i'm looking for suggestions/recommendations.. i think i may have other issues causing these problems...........bare with me, it's kinda a long post..

2000 de/ec 200
2k2 ignition, ddk neeedle, 175 main , 42 pilot, air screw 2.5 out - idles cold at 1200ish...

OK: current setup
.9mm gap
10 tc balls (previously 5 balls...)
C200L2 spring
1 flat washer

(does someone have a setup for 2k2 ignition with rekluse that works well for them (no slip, low speed engage, still pulls front end up to clear logs etc..)

clutch engages currently at very low speed, does not slip at full rpm, has nice hit with 10 tc balls.... but fails to disengage very well (3rd gear to full rear brake lock motor idles way down, and almost stalls, then stalls.....) clutch does not drag when idling in gear.

here are some things i noticed that seemed strange to me:
the clutch throwout kinda just rattles around in the pressure plate when lever not pulled...it's definitely not pushing against the pressure plate at all. i can pull the lever and disengage the clutch though.

bike idles fine until it gets hot, then it seems the idle screw has almost no effect. i really gotta turn it in when hot to keep it running (like enough to take the idle circuit out..)... i'm thinking this is a pilot jet issue...maybe i should go smaller?

bike stalls down hills with rekluse (i'm assuming it's a combination of it being rich, and the slight drag of the clutch not fully disengaging.) - it did not stall without rekluse. but then again, i previously engine brake/or pull clutch in down hills before. now i just coast/rear brake down the hills..

i'm assuming this is a combination of jetting and rekluse setup issues affecting the problem??

is my jetting way off and it's causing problems?? this is the ltr jet kit supposedly.. i know the ddk needle is similar to cck.. plug looks fine, haven't fouled one yet (br8eg i think - can't remember) - bike over revs nicely (180 main would sputter at the top end), and returns to idle fine..no flat spots on accel....

i know this is a lot of questions........so any suggestions on where to go from here is appreciated....

[iancp5]

Ha!
I went through this on a 200 and gave up in the end. Either I turned up the idle and let it drag which is fine until you select neutral, sometimes by accident and the revs would soar giving a nasty clunk when you select gear or with the idle down it would stall regularly. I should say I had no clutch lever fitted replacing with a brake.

I think the problem is two fold; the Gassers have draggy clutches and erratic idle which changes a lot with conditions and ... 2 strokes, especially small ones have zero torque close to idle. I think at idle you could touch the stator with a finger and stall it.

I may fit it to my 450 one day as everyone I know who's used them on 4 strokes has no problem. I decided that I would never be happy on a little 2 stroke without a good clutch override and I think you need the Pro model for that which isn't available for GasGas yet. Shame because when it was working the Rekluse was great, especially in the trees. But suddenly need to get on the pipe and it was a problem. It was as you are finding too knife edge to setup.

I found I altered my technique on descents I would keep it in a lower gear than normal and sometimes blip the throttle while braking to keep the clutch engaged.

How is overriding it with the clutch lever. This is supposed to be a no-no. How does it work / feel. Why do Rekluse say not to do it? I assume because at revs the centrifugal force will be pushing back at you but I never tried it.

[svt2224]

I was having the same stalling issue with the 10 heavy balls. I called rekluse and they suggested that I install a smaller wave spring inside of the larger L2 spring, however, I have not tried it because my problem ended up being a mechanical issue. I will post the part# of the spring this afternoon.
j

[stainlesscycle]

Originally Posted by iancp5

How is overriding it with the clutch lever. This is supposed to be a no-no. How does it work / feel. Why do Rekluse say not to do it? I assume because at revs the centrifugal force will be pushing back at you but I never tried it.

i called and asked about it -because i can see the pressure plate flex when i pull the clutch in. the tech there said, they've never seen one break because of it, even though they warn against it... so i use the clutch (the lever feel is almost nothing. and you can pull clutch while in the upper rev ranges..you cannot slip it though - it's either on or off.) my problem is i was planning on installing a lhrb and removing clutch altogether - but now i see i need the clutch for blipping on tough uphills...

i don't wanna defeat the whole zippiness of the light flywheel with a weight..which would probably fix the stalling issue..

on another note - i'm running klotz flexdrive30 synthetic in my transmission and it does not drag.. (i bought 2 cases at an auction for $20!) - before that i usually ran atf type f in my modern 2 stroke transmissions

[stainlesscycle]

doh. i just pulled carb apart - it appears there's a 48 pilot jet in it (how did that get in there?)

i'm switching to 42 and hopefully that may solve a problem or 2...

[iancp5]

Originally Posted by stainlesscycle

on another note - i'm running klotz flexdrive30 synthetic in my transmission and it does not drag.. (i bought 2 cases at an auction for $20!) - before that i usually ran atf type f in my modern 2 stroke transmissions

If it doesn't drag what is making it stall?
Does it cut in neutral?

48 seems a tad large but mine was much the same on a 42

[stainlesscycle]

i think it's stalling too rich on pilot. when hot, coming off pipe, it drops to below idle, then tries to return, but stalls - a good indicator of too rich pilot..

it only drags on clutch disengaging. if i am just sitting at idle in gear, it doesn't try to pull me forward - i can push bike backwards while in gear and idling......

neutral idle has been erratic when hot. that's why i thought it was rich...switched 42 jet in, gonna warm it up and ride around and see if that caused all my problems...



edit: 42 pilot jet has drastically improved idle (duh!) - still need to have idle (in neutral) at 1500+ (to stop stalling when in gear..) - throwing it in gear from neutral has a mild clunk.. but it doesn't stall as much. it did stall when jamming rear brake from wot 3rd gear downhill. if it idles down after wot to rear brake slide, it disengages, and i can roll bike backwards in any gear while running. so i think the jetting pretty close now. i just probably have to adjust springs in clutch for easier disengage..... i'm assuming the 10 tc balls are centrifugally causing clutch to not return to disengaged..

[iancp5]

I can't remember exactly what I used but I had my best results from 10 TC balls and a stronger than standard spring. If I used the Rekluse recommended setup it wouldn't lock up early enough and would slip when coming on the pipe in high gears.

[svt2224]

I think that once you get the jetting/engagement lined out you will be able to use the LHRB with out a problem. I had great luck with it once I fixed the lack of compression and jetting issue. I was able to negotiate long steep downhills and brake slides with no stalling, I just could'nt make myself use the lhb over the foot brake.