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Enduro Suspension Tuning & maintenance of Enduro forks, shocks, etc


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  #11  
Old 10-08-2016, 04:16 PM
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Jakobi Jakobi is offline
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I'll see how the kids are behaving today. Might get a chance to do something up. Won't be a full how-to. Just a break-down on the cap.

Should also note that there are a few different caps in circulation (some with preload adjustment). There are some variations between them and their internals but the clicker threading into the damping rod is a common factor.


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Old 10-09-2016, 10:04 PM
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So a few more pics. Doesn't really show anything that the other links provided don't though.

So remove cap, remove plastic spacer, ensure the locknut on the damper rod is threaded right back. Note that the damper rod has an internal thread - this is what the clicker threads into.


The clicker itself will most likely back out with the cap, or you can ensure it does like Steve (twowheels) mentioned earlier in the thread.


Applying pressure on the clicker with the screwdriver as above, the whole clicker will push out of the cap. You can see this clicker has different coloured threads.. I made the mistake myself first time through these forks. Can confirm what has been said that replacements aren't available. I ended up using silver solder and then retapped the threads.


And finally, a picture with the clicker sitting in the damper rod, no cap attached.


You can actually assemble the fork with the clicker in like this, and then lubricate the O-rings with a silicone grease and fit the cap over the top. You will feel the indents/clicks roll over as the cap moves over the clicker assembly.

The other methods as described by LT and SP work as well.

What doesn't work is trying to smash the cap on without confirming the clicker threads are engaged as well. You should be able to turn the cap on mostly by hand with little resistance if things are going together correctly.
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Old 10-11-2016, 08:13 AM
Mikeyx Mikeyx is offline
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Thanks Jakobi - now I got it. Your way of reinstalling the rebound screw seems most safe.
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Old 10-22-2016, 09:34 AM
Mikeyx Mikeyx is offline
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I did the job according to Jacobi's instructions - thanks again for the clarification.

A few questions:

- the oil was black sludge in appearance. Will I have to kiss the forks goodbye or will they serve okay in my light-duty use?
- after the job, as I pumped the forks up and down, oil kept seeping between the red circle in the top cap and the 19 mm hex part. Do I need to dismantle the top caps and replace the seals?
- do I have to open the tiny air purge screws to let air out or what is their purpose?
- I have plenty of 5W fork oil left - is it suitable for the clutch hydraulics?
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Old 10-22-2016, 05:43 PM
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If the forks haven't been serviced in some time the oil will generally be pretty fouled. I'd change the oil again in another 50hrs and inspect again.

If you have the adjustable preload caps as per LT's webpage, the leak will be one of the O-rings. It's very common. Cap needs to come off and disassemble to replace.

Air bleed screws are to vent pressure build up. In use some air can get past the outer seal and pump your forks up a bit. Should only get a small hiss of air every now and then. Some brands/seals are worse than others.

Fork oil is OK for use in clutch system that asks for mineral oil.
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