Tell me about 2002 ec200

[gumbellion]

I came across a 2002 gas gas 200 and have been doing some research but there really isnt a whole lot to find. It looks to be in good condition he is asking $2400CAD,it needs rubber but other than that looks sound.
I read a bunch on this forum and there are guys with the original top end with well over 100hours, is this the norm or just cases of guys getting golden bikes? Also it seems there are a few places in the states to get parts, so I am not too worried, but what about aftermarket parts?
Now the big one is how will I like it?
I rode hare scrambles for 5 years on a YZ250 which was fairly heavily modified. I sold it last summer as I no longer race but miss riding offroad a lot. I have a husqvarna 610sm that sees street duty.
I weight 160 no gear, and will maybe start doing some fun events and riding with some friends.
How will it do lugging me around, and will i be fingering the clutch and working my wrists like I was on my YZ or can I expect to tractor it around a bit?
Any advice would be great, I have looked at gasgas bikes in the past but never happened. Its something I would like to own to have a couple exotics in the stable.
If he will take 2000 for it I will make the 3 hour drive to go take it for a ride and check it out. It is winter here though so I wont be able to really get a feel other than if its mechanically sound
Thanks

[stainlesscycle]

100 hours on a top end? :0

mine has closer to 1000 hours on it, with just 1 set of rings......i dunno if that's the norm or not. they are tough motors. http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=8555

all the aftermarket parts you would need are available, and priced similarly to every other bike..

it won't lug like a 300, but it won't be like riding a 125 either. you'll most likely be just as busy shifting/clutching on the gg200 as you would be on a yz250. i can bet ya it will turn better than a yz.


$2400CAD sounds high, but condition is everything....

[lankydoug]

I bought a 2003 EC200 for a similar price and I really like it. I think once I get the tire and gearing combo right with a little flywheel weight it will be awesome in the rocks and trees that I have been riding in lately. The suspension is like a dream and feels like you can throw it around like a 125. I have no regrets buying mine.

[gumbellion]

The YZ spent most of every race on the rear wheel, even turning it usually involved a handful of throttle and some fancy body movements. So I am hoping the 200 will be a lot easier to manage. As for lugging me I would probably go with the old faithful pro circuit or a gnarly with an FMF silencer.
I think I am going to try and make a trip to see it next weekend. I Always check rads, air filter to be sure it?s been maintained, fork seals, wheel bearings best I can, general condition of frame, wheels etc for signs of neglect and abuse. Are there any items other than the usual that I should pay close attention to?
Also I have read that the GG use a wide variety of fasteners, what do I need to get the seat off? I am guessing just a standard ratchet set would work, along with my Allen keys should do it.

He claims the motor was rebuilt in 2008 and has about 30-40 hours on it since then, so it should still be really tight which I should be able to tell through a quick test ride if I can find some dry pavement.
Do you think that $2000 is a reasonable offer? From the photos it appears to be stock other than a pipe guard
I really appreciate your help, I never want to go into something with no knowledge in my pocket and end up getting burned.

[lankydoug]

Originally Posted by gumbellion

The YZ spent most of every race on the rear wheel, even turning it usually involved a handful of throttle and some fancy body movements. So I am hoping the 200 will be a lot easier to manage. As for lugging me I would probably go with the old faithful pro circuit or a gnarly with an FMF silencer.
I think I am going to try and make a trip to see it next weekend. I Always check rads, air filter to be sure it?s been maintained, fork seals, wheel bearings best I can, general condition of frame, wheels etc for signs of neglect and abuse. Are there any items other than the usual that I should pay close attention to?
Also I have read that the GG use a wide variety of fasteners, what do I need to get the seat off? I am guessing just a standard ratchet set would work, along with my Allen keys should do it.

He claims the motor was rebuilt in 2008 and has about 30-40 hours on it since then, so it should still be really tight which I should be able to tell through a quick test ride if I can find some dry pavement.
Do you think that $2000 is a reasonable offer? From the photos it appears to be stock other than a pipe guard
I really appreciate your help, I never want to go into something with no knowledge in my pocket and end up getting burned.

My 03 was a DE which has the Ohlins package and a few other little things and I paid a little less than 2k but I think I got a really good deal. I went through the usual checks on mine and what I found that was the most in need was the shock and shock link bearings and bushings needed cleaned and repacked with grease. The swingarm bearings should be on your list of thins to check as well.

[iancp5]

You'll find it at lot easier to ride than a standard YZ especially if it's the big flywheel model. It should have a much smoother power curve than a YZ if setup right but ultimately a bit less power. I've never owned a YZ but when I've ridden them found them too on and off for my liking requiring very accurate throttle control in the woods.

[stainlesscycle]

power delivery is definitely smoother than yz (although ignition, flywheel, pipe, pv cover, etc. can change these drastically..) it won't be on the rear wheel unless you want it to be. stock they are very trials like in power delivery.

check:
linkage/swingarm bearings
missing bolts - especially in lower triple trees....they are m7 on wp front, so they sometimes get replaced with wrong fasteners.... i have a source for these - much cheaper than $7.00 each oem..
subframe for cracks/breaks
if it idles smoothly and on it's own when it's warm.
check for clutch drag and smooth clutch engagement when warm.
find out why motor was rebuilt in 08? top end or top and bottom?
should start very easily hot or cold.
check fluids for milkiness...
keep in mind, plastics are expensive on this bike - and if you want to keep it yellow, the only option is oem as far as i know.

Originally Posted by gumbellion

I am guessing just a standard ratchet set would work, along with my Allen keys should do it.

yep, plus possibly a phillips screwdriver for tank shrouds...

[iancp5]

Originally Posted by stainlesscycle

stock they are very trials like in power delivery. .

I have to disagree with that! They are smoother and have more bottom than a YZ but they are nothing like a trials bike. Your power valve must be stuck closed!