Marzocchi 48mm CC Forks

[GMP]

Steve,

Think its worth changing to KYB seals for less stiction if I take the fork down for service soon, or just wait till they are due?

[twowheels]

Originally Posted by GMP

Steve,

Think its worth changing to KYB seals for less stiction if I take the fork down for service soon, or just wait till they are due?

You might be waiting for a while ... the stockers seem to really hold up. I'd try the SKF seals or some of the Synergy offerings when it's time.

[Leo]

Originally Posted by Vindicator

Leo, do you remember if you could compress the forks all the way to the lock nut after you closed them ?

Can't remember for sure but I think so.

When I overfill the cartridge and try to mount I see that I was in trouble. So I use the straps to help. But I in trouble yet. Too much force needed. So I move the piston and some oil leak. Then I was able to get closer. Then move the piston again. more oil flow thru the holes and I was more and more closer. After 3 or 4 times I put the cap and do the final piston bleed.

[GMP]

Vindicator,

Will do, once I get my motor back together. I'm compiling notes from all the info on this subject. You know, Les told me that closing the cartridge would be harder if the PFP were not backed all the way out, but didn't mention it being a big problem otherwise. This is from a guy still recovering from serious heart issues and surgery, and not in the best of shape at this point I'm sure. If it required massive physical strength, or a special tool/fixture/procedure, I think he would have told me so when I asked if there was anything special I should know. Only special tool was a rebound piston band retainer he made up, but the oring trick sounds slick and easy. Could we be missing something? You guys are ahead of me on this one and I'm not saying your wrong, but something just seems a bit strange. Even from a mfg. perspective, you don't wan't to design something thats labor intensive and expensive to assemble.

[twowheels]

I talked to Les yesterday and he seemed healthy as a young colt ... and then he said resealing the cartridge was a two-man job.

How much force is required? Sounds like at least 7mm x whatever the pressure spring rate is ... plus you've got to move additional fluid through the standard compression piston.

Try one of the sliding socket bars so you can bare down from both sides with the socket in the middle - I could get oh so close with just a wrench, but not engage the thread.

[GMP]

Wow. Wonder if the engineer responsible ever actually did one? Sounds easy to screw up the first few threads too. What about removing it, did you have to push on it hard to avoid it tearing the last threads out?

[Hoobs]

I put together the cartridge without tools, I do it by hand.
I pour in about 210-220 ml of oil in each inner chamber, and there will be about 10 ml which is squeezed out when I compress the fork.

[GMP]

If its a 20Nm spring, that converts to 177 lbs in. So at a 7mm preload that would be 48.8 lbs. Pretty stiff.

[Hoobs]

Originally Posted by Leo

You need to remove the coil. Where the coil sit (Upside) there is an part that you need to slide down. (you need a little force here) Than you will see the ring and the others channels.

I tried to "slide down" the part who sets the preload but I used all the force I had without moving it.
Do I need to be Darth Wader or is it any other trix I need to know?

[twowheels]

Originally Posted by Hoobs

I tried to "slide down" the part who sets the preload but I used all the force I had without moving it.
Do I need to be Darth Wader or is it any other trix I need to know?

It's on there good-n-tight. As for the action required to dislodge it, think slide hammer. I positioned the cartridge loosely in a vise and then rotated it as I was repetitively striking it on the vise jaws.