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Enduro Engine - 2 stroke Cylinder, Piston, Tranny, Bearings, Clutch, Pipes & Silencers, etc.


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  #11  
Old 05-04-2018, 06:19 PM
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Jakobi Jakobi is offline
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All above is great advice by Dave.

Also check the ecu/ignition switch. Wet mode makes they very lazy off the bottom end and not very snappy.

I ride a 250 so my bike is not very punchy off idle. If I was puttering around and whacked the throttle in 2nd I probably wouldn't get a predictable wheel lift either.. but it's not a lack of power.. just the power curve.

I can lift the front in 5th and 6th gears under power only, when in the meat of the power band. Not so much at low rpm. The 300's do tend to come on a bit earlier though.


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  #12  
Old 05-05-2018, 07:26 AM
Luke.au Luke.au is offline
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So tonight I finally got to the piston and I dare say that's where my problem was, there looks to be some blow-by on the left and right sides and the ring end gaps would be close to 3mm if not more, hopefully there will be a big improvement when i get it all back together, also noticed that the trans oil was black so that may have been a factor, as for the wet and dry switch, mines been relocated to the bars and there's no markings on the switch itself so I'm not sure whats what, I'll test it out after its reassembled and once I've got it figured out will mark it, I honestly thought it was a faulty killswitch when I got the bike, anyway, big thanks to everyone whose given me advice and I've got one last possibly dumb question, is there a trans oil filler point or do you have to fill through the clutch cover with the bike on its side?
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  #13  
Old 05-05-2018, 07:30 AM
Luke.au Luke.au is offline
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Old piston close ups,
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 15255232908241698177313.jpg (122.8 KB, 21 views)
File Type: jpg 1525523376643-1706542044.jpg (126.6 KB, 15 views)
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  #14  
Old 05-05-2018, 09:36 AM
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If your trans oil smells like gasoline you may also have a bad crank seal. Similarly if you smell gasoline inside the ignition cover.
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Old 05-05-2018, 08:40 PM
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The piston doesn't look too bad really. No pics of the front edge?

Can you also confirm how you measured the end gap on the rings? It's not often to see them so far out of spec. I ran a set of 250cc rings for 120 hard hours once and had noticeable decline in power which only measured 0.9mm.

On the other hand a mate drowned his te300 and continued running it with a silted engine and it ran until it ran out of compression. The kick starter turned over like the plug was out of the head.. and when we pulled it down the rings were so flogged out that they would falls straight through the cylinder.

The transmission fill point is up above the countershaft sprocket. It's same size allen key as the drain, and the fill hole is about as big too. Most of us have a bit of tubing attached to a funnel to feed it in. Some use a sealed bottle to help force the fluid in a bit quicker. 900ml-1L does the trick.

You mentioned a faulty kill switch? Does this mean the bike has been running poorly; ie cutting out, spluttering, hesitating, etc.. or is it simply under powered? I agree with above that if it's running poorly as well as lacking go that it'd be worth double checking other faults. You could also consider measuring the trans oil you dropped out to see if its in the range as above.
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Old 05-06-2018, 02:24 AM
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I have to agree, the piston doesn't look too bad, I doubt it's the cause of the power loss.

From what I understand, the gearbox oil is always black as there's no real seal between the exhaust ports and the cavities behind the power valve covers, then on the right side there's the open hole down into the gearbox. So even if you replace the gearbox oil it quickly becomes black again. Can anyone confirm this is correct or am I missing something?

Good luck, Dave.
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  #17  
Old 05-06-2018, 11:33 AM
Luke.au Luke.au is offline
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Yeah, after replacing the piston I got her back together and went out for a test run and it still feels low on power, I'm going to pull the carb next and go through that, as for the kill switch, I thought the map switch was the kill switch for about a week until I noticed the actual kill switch on the back of the light cluster, it works fine, if I get through the carb and its still down on power I'm going to take her down to a friend whose an ex Honda race mechanic and see what he thinks, was just hoping to get it sorted myself and save some money,
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Old 05-06-2018, 12:41 PM
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Hi Luke

I'm sure it'll be something simple and easy to fix, the difficult part is finding exactly what's causing the problem.

Please keep us posted and let us know the outcome.

Fingers crossed you be out enjoying your full power soon!

All the best, Dave.
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  #19  
Old 05-10-2018, 09:19 PM
Luke.au Luke.au is offline
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So today has not been a good day, because I was a little intimidated about dismantling a carb I decided to repack my muffler and change the air filter to see how much difference it would make, got both jobs done and tried to start her up, after about 20 kicks I figured I'd fouled the plug so decided to swap it over only to discover coolant on the tip, have since pulled the head and jug off to check the extent of the leak and as far as I can tell I screwed up somewhere because I have a grey slimy mixture coating the piston/conrod/combustion chamber/and down in the crankcase, I'm guessing I had a coolant leak and its mixed with the oil in the fuel, i pulled the drain bolt to let whatever else was in there run out but there is still some sludge on the crank and in the crankcase that I can't reach with a rag, anyone have any idea on how to get it out without splitting the cases? And should I be concerned about the transmission or is that sealed?
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  #20  
Old 05-10-2018, 10:07 PM
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Oh bugger! Is your coolant leak at the head or the base of the cylinder?

Flushing the bottom end out with a bit of diesel shouldn't do it any harm and will pull the remaining moisture out.

The transmission is sealed from the crankcase, however the breather is through the rhs powervalve cover. You'd have to be unlucky to get considerable moisture from there into the gearbox.
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