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Enduro Engine - 2 stroke Cylinder, Piston, Tranny, Bearings, Clutch, Pipes & Silencers, etc.


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  #11  
Old 04-26-2011, 02:21 PM
EtienneNZ EtienneNZ is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gg3 View Post
Did you let Noobi ride it? Or being Easter were we going for the' ride on water'.Now I think about it 'J.C.' could have done with a GasGas.It would have hauled that cross up the hill piece of piss for starters.Where the apostles a bike club? Did Judus ride an orange bike?
I do wonder about the long term engine wear on internal bearings,a bit of water on a wheel bearing can screw it pretty quick,maybe time to move it on.
LMAO Will start praying!


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  #12  
Old 04-26-2011, 02:49 PM
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It would be a good idea to pull the wheels off, replace the bearings and pull the tyres off and clean behind the rubber strip that sits in the rim covering the spokes. The rim will corrode super quick around the spoke nipples unless you get that salt out. Gotta say, salt water is about the worst thing you can do to your bike...... (even worse than letting noobi ride it!)
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  #13  
Old 05-03-2011, 07:26 AM
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Last ride of the year last fall, out for a chilly ride and sunk it deep in the river. After a few hours of pumping the water out upside down and cleaning the plug and re-trying, finally got it running. Instant bad squeal from the main bearings, but had to ride it to he nearest road or it'd stay there! In the middle of a complete rebuild now. If sunk, you need to get running asap and run til it can evaporate all the water out of it. Unfortunately, mine was destined to come apart! But hey, nothing like a fresh motor, no?
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Old 05-03-2011, 07:40 AM
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I sunk a KTM in a river once during an enduro, but did not restart it as it was near the pit area. It was fine after I pulled the motor and top end the next day, and completely flushed it out with premix and WD40. A lot of silt came out. Most bikes that restarted and continued were rebuilt soon or immediately after.
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Old 05-04-2011, 10:11 PM
EtienneNZ EtienneNZ is offline
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Update: Last weekend I pulled the motor and completely cleaned the bike and re-assembled - took me the whole weekend. Did not find much , which is good, but boy I wish I new that before I started - it's a big job. Engine free of any salt and dirt etc. Think what was good is that I flushed it all within an hour after happening. Bike starts first kick and flies. I am happy (and lucky). Bonus is that my GG now looks like new - it is so clean!

Thanks for all the input. Great forum.
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  #16  
Old 05-05-2011, 01:30 AM
swazi_matt swazi_matt is offline
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best thing is to get it running asap.

seems like some here are unaware that the GG is designed for enduro and unlike the pumpkin enduro bikes it has a drain bolt into the crank to speed up the drain process, meaning you do not need to remove the plug and turn the bike upside down

Another good trick to know is that if the oil turns white (has water in it) then drain it, fill it with parafin (kerosene) run the bike slowly for a few hundred meters and drain it again, then fill it with oil. If you try to flush it with oil you may end up doing about 4 oil changes before you get it to stop going milky
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Old 05-05-2011, 09:55 AM
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Best thing is to get the water displaced ASAP, then clean it out properly. If you don't have to start it, dump the water, pull the reed block, and spray a can of water displacement lube through the lower end letting it drain out the bottom. Across the lower rod bearing, main bearing lube holes, everything. This will flush all of the water and most of the silt out, but you will find more when you pull the top end. Yeah, sometimes you have no choice, but firing it up with grit in the lower end is not good. Any moving or disturbed water is usually full of silt, and even clean water through the fliter carries some of the dirt with it. The good thing is that the newer sealed crank bearings take them out of the loop. Mains are usually the first thing to go.
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