What have you done to your Gasser & why ?

[geoff g]

It seems to me that dirt bike manufacturers just provide us with a " blank canvas ", a place to start building our own ideal bike, similar to what Harley Davidson do with their cruisers, only they supply you with an accessories book 3" thick to work through. I thought I might start a thread to outline the changes we make & why, depending on the type of terrain, our skill level & personal preferences.
My history is 43 years of riding & racing dirt bikes. My current bike & the 90th that I have owned, is an 11' EC300SD. The terrain that I prefer is fairly snotty single track, but also fast and flowing. The changes that I have made are as follows.....

* forks, standard Sachs 48mm...changed to 2.5w oil with an air gap of 140mm which has given me more stroke of travel and quickened the steering as well.
* brake snake... to stop brush getting caught between the pedal and frame.
* muffler...standard Stealth but modified by cutting out the restriction & 4" of length resulting in a length of 14". This has improved the response right thru-out the rev range & has actually helped cornering by getting on the pipe sooner.
* G2 quick throttle...still waiting for it to arrive, but have used this type on other bikes with great results. Will give even better response and I believe it will help to fine tune the jetting as it will not stay on a particular jet cycle as long.
* T3...still waiting for this as well but I expect that the extra length will allow me to route the cable better reducing the snag factor.
* squish...have set the port timing with piston level at bdc and machined 1mm from the head to end up with 1.3mm of squish. This was based on info from this site and the difference from the standard 2.3mm is noticeable.
( I guess all the little changes combined make for a big gain )
* carby 38mm...set float level slightly lower using a vacuum hose rather than a measurement. 40p 180m N3EJ #2 is working well for me at the moment, easy starting, will idle & pulls all the way thru the rev range.
* tyres...have just changed to Pirelli MX extra 120/100 rear & XC 80/100 front. I spent a bit of time with pressures & 16psi for both works really well in the current conditions ( winter ).
* gearing...standard, as it is always the last thing I change after eveything else is sorted & only then if required.
* other...as it is a six days model, it already has the essentials like hand guards, bash plate, rear resevoir extension & descent size brakes.

You can see that my changes have mostly been performance based as I have grown up with narrow power bands and hard to ride bikes, but also find the current generation of dirt bikes to be too easy to ride fast which takes the fun away for me. I am really happy with the handling of this bike and dont see any need to change anything other than clicker adjustments to suit.

[swazi_matt]

2010 EC300 sachs/sachs - terrain is mountainous single track with lots of rocks

* Tubliss front and back with Mitas rubber - Once you have tried tubliss everything else feels wrong (personal opinion!)
* Jetting, N3EH but will probably change to NEDJ for the ROOF
* rock protection - hyde skidplate, swingarm and front disk guard, P3 exhaust guard, fastway handguards
* revalved front forks by twowheels - to sort out the midvalve to stop deflections and harshness on square edges
* Racetech shock revalve - once the front was sorted the rear became an issue, RT kit makes it more plush and handles better (RT kit for 2009 husky 310)
* changed gearing to handle climbs better 12/48 - will change to 13/51 soon
* added GG trials fan - some of our climbs are really long and v slow!
* added Elvis74 15mm powervalve spacer for even more torque (i pull a plow on weekends!)
* Cannon house of horsepower silencer - for motivation, the banana was too long and too tame!

[GMP]

More than I planned too. When I'm running again I'll make a list.

[bukwheat]

I too have the 11 300 six days but I have the Marzocchi 45s and the Ohlins shock. When I bought mine, the shop set up the sag and jetting for me and it runs fine. I broke in the suspension then had a local guy go thru the forks. Not sure exactly what he did other than scallop the PVC preload tubes, adjust the oil level and used Repsol 5w fork oil.

I have a tall soft seat from Guts installed. I installed a TrailTech Voyager GPS.
I set up a whole new set of handlebars just like the stock bend but I installed grip heaters on the new ones. That way, I can swap out pretty quick when the weather changes. Kind of expensive but effective...

I still have the stock tires on but plan on changing to something else before riding season starts again, probably Pirellis, I like Pirellis.

I have been thinking of maybe sub tanks for the forks, I have heard some good things about them and not really heard any negatives. Anybody???
I am after some plush forks, something that is supple over roots and rocks.
I don't jump much anymore so I don't need the harsh G out forks.

Thats about it, I like to leave a motor pretty stock....for one, I will never use all the power from this motor in its stock condition. And I believe you get better reliability/longevity out of a stock motor.

[forgiven]

2010 EC 300

RB Modded Carb--more performance and prejetted
EE Radiator frames--bike safety
EE Skid plate--bike safety
Bark Busters--my safety
Bar Risers--my comfort
New Style Gas Cap--OEM sucked nuts
Bar Pad--my safety/looks way cool
P3 Pipe Guard--bike safety
Moose Hybrid Footpegs--replaced bent to crap ones
LTR PV cover--more low end/bling
2T flywheel weight--yet more low end
Michelin S12(rear)--tractionous maximous
Unifilter--better than stock IMO

I have to do the head mod when I get time but this may be the best woods bike I have ever ridden. The stock suspension is good for my weight (~195) but considered LTR but for my riding level is more than adequate. Considered Motosportz stabilizer but it already tracks like a son of a gun. Lastly I am convinced if I could stop scraping my boot on the back fender my bike would look very close to brand new minus the frame protectors which never look good again after the first few rides. Maybe I will get the billet GG ones...I think I just talked myself into it.

Additionally when I get the new rim to replace the bent one on the 2011 250f I will swap rims with the 2010 so the red hubs go with 2011 and the black hubs come back to the 2010 as it should have been. The 2011 looks pretty good new, but the 2010 looks badass. I have red anodized big bar adaptors and a red anodized rear sprocket, with the red anodized forks, and when I swap the normal red hubs it is gonna look sweet. I hadn't crashed in the almost 2 years I owned it except 2 weeks ago I crashed twice (2nd because I should have quit after the first crash) in which I destroyed a peg, bars, barkbuster, and fender brace. Fortunately all the graphics and plastics came away unscathed...oh yeah 2 broken toes, but I think I saved the side graphics in the process so that was a win.

[Lonestar4x4]

I had Dave at STM do my supension, revalved front and rear. Resprung the forks, stock rear spring. Dave was really helpful and the bike feels great from tight rocky single track and even does really well on fast MX stuff.

Also did the RB head mod and carb mod. I literally think I could get over 40 miles out of a tank of gas. I can't believe how fuel efficient the bike is now.

I added Cycra Probend hand guards. Probably only need them once in a while but it's sure nice to have them when you get tired and start pinballing off trees. lol

Been contemplating on going with a 49t rear sprocket as 2nd gear is a little too pipey and 3rd gear lugs just a little more than I like where I've been riding. Haven't had the bike in a race yet, not until next month. After that I'll decide if I should change the gearing. I'm still getting used of the turning capabilities of this beast.

[andykr87]

11 300 estart(that doesnt work)
Suspension revalved and heavier springs (i weight 275) just recently put new oil in 10w and added some oil, the 45mm zoki's were not getting along but feel alot better now.
Tall guts seat foam and cover(go w the harder foam, im squashing through now to the base)
Scorpion rad braces
P3 pipe guard
Plastic skidplate( dont remember the brand)
Yz kickstarter( stock gg one bent)
Fastway footpegs
Bonz handlebar clamps/barkbuster mounts
Bar risers
Replaced the kill and start buttons w kx style ones and got rid of the weird turn signal thing gg had from the factory
Cut off all the brake master cylinder turn signal connections
Brake snake
Jd jetting kit that im having trouble getting the half throttle bog out of
Twinair filter
Yamaha lube 10w-40 after every ride
Rekluse clutch w the cover
50 hours so far, im really looking forward to getting the 12 or 13 for the taller seat height and layout, i have three more enduros to do then im selling this bike.

One thing i will say is the stock brake pads have lasted forever! Still havent changed them, May have to do chain and sprockets before them. Im coming off 4 450 motocross bikes that i set up to race enduros and used to hare scrambles. i wont be racing anything but a 300 gg for awhile. So nimble, smooth and easy to work on. I miss the four stroke power in the mud but not the weight for sure.

[Rick]

99 EC200- Mostly mountain singal track, race cross country and select enduro's. I am a B Senior, soon to be a Super Senior 50+

*13/51 gearing-Talon/AFAM/Regina "O"ring chain

*FMF T/C II Spark Arrestor

*Utah Cycle Sports Skid Plate w/ foam fitted between the motor and plate to keep mud from building up

* Scotts Shark Fin rear brake caliper carrier

*OEM GasGas Fat Bars

*Moose Bark Buster

*Pro Taper Pillow Top Grips w/ Donuts to control bilster

*CEET Gripper Seat Cover

*Converted to 43mm WP USD forks, vice the OEM 45mm Zokes

*LTR P/V cover.....not currently on bike due to other engine mods-no real gain.

*Pro Seal Air Box Gasket

*Twin Air Filters

*Maxxis IT / SI - toast will replace with S-12's or Geo Max

*LTR Jetting Kit

*WER Damper

*Barnett Clutch Pack / Springs

*Several engine mods....squish, timing, pipe mod = very nice mid range snap, low end tends to be a bit soft, but still very lug-able with little wheel spin.

[bowhunter007]

2001 XC250 (currently disassembled)
Lt & Rt replaced radiators(with guards/braces)
Engine gone through about 8 rides ago(no real engine mods)
Black front & rear fenders w/ white side panels
graphics TBD
19" MX rear wheel
MX51's front & rear
Haven't decided on rad shrouds yet
I swapped in the 19" wheel a while back, 'cause the previous owner was riding on loose spokes, and hogged out the holes for the spoke nipples. I installed a 13/54 combo. Somehow, in my ignorance, I stumbled upon the magic combo for traction with my riding style. I'm keeping the big wheel, since it's working so well. Hopefully, I'll have it reassembled and riding again, by mid Sept.

[Jakobi]

2010 EC300R/EC250 S3R

Chasis
Dunlop Geomax MX31 (front) MX51 (rear)
Removed Cross Brace from Renthal Twinwalls for more flex (comfort)
Motosportz Damper (not that it was required - safety)
T3 Throttle cable (more length, captive fittings - safety)
Pro Taper Pillow Tops (comfort)
Force Rad Guards (protection)
Force Bash Plate (protection)
P3 Pipe Guard (protection)
TMD Chain Guide and Slider (bling/safety)
Ride PG Powersports Grafx (bling)
Checkpoint Offroad Brake Pivot (quality)
Checkpoint Offroad Hardened Wheel Spacers (quality)
TTX Cartridge Inserts for stock 48mm Sach Forks 4.6 Springs
TTX Shock 5.4 Spring

Engine Generic
8mm LHS PV Cover (dmcca)
38mm PWK ASII #7 unnotched slide - Stock
Removed Reed Block Spacer
Jetting (too many configs, Yamaha/Suzi needles)

EC250
Gold S3 Head
Black Insert - Custom Machined (dmcca)
S3 250 Race hand ported and matched cylinder
Ports timed, piston above exh 0.7mm at BDC
1.25mm squish, 14:1 UCCR
EC300
Red S3 Head
Stock Black S3 Insert
Stock Cyl hand matched
Ports timed, piston level with exh at BDC
1.9mm squish (uncalculated UCCR)
Note: will be working on the 300 config before running it next (ie bottom end monster)

Basically everything I have is either to increase performance or safety. Stock suspension worked well (Sachs/Ohlins combo) and the TTX was a self indulgent treat. Stock engine had excess squish clearance of 2.6mm which I would recommend having corrected on any bike. Selection of S3 Parts offer no additional performance and are purely asthetic. These bikes need very little bolt ons and all my modifications have happened over a 2 year period/5000+kms of mostly single track as I've felt the need to spend more than replacing faulty/damaged parts.