Leaking oil from nipple near left valve

[swazi_matt]

if it is jetted too lean it will overheat, but you can normally hear that in the idle revving a bit high so if it isn't boiling under easy circumstances then i agree with f5

Never done anything fancy with a sparkplug change and using the general purpose ES plug it will most likely have even less effect than if you were using the recommended racing plug EG (i think)

[JayStallion]

Originally Posted by swazi_matt

if it is jetted too lean it will overheat, but you can normally hear that in the idle revving a bit high so if it isn't boiling under easy circumstances then i agree with f5

Never done anything fancy with a sparkplug change and using the general purpose ES plug it will most likely have even less effect than if you were using the recommended racing plug EG (i think)

In my manual it recommends the NGK BR8ES plug ??
Maybe I will try the EG plug instead and see if that helps. I did wonder now the air is getting colder it will mean my pilot jet needs changing up to rich the bike out abit. I'm going to take the spark plug out and check the condition I have seen some informative videos of reading a spark plug and hopefully that will show me what's going on with the bike.

[(F5)]

No it won't.

A plug chop can only tell you about the mainjet and only if performed properly. Useful for roadrace. Just pulling out a plug and looking at it won't tell you anything Useful.

Spend your time watching riding techniques. Next step in your rabbit hole is carburettor exorcism

[Jim Cook]

Originally Posted by (F5)

No it won't.

A plug chop can only tell you about the mainjet and only if performed properly. Useful for roadrace. Just pulling out a plug and looking at it won't tell you anything Useful.

Spend your time watching riding techniques. Next step in your rabbit hole is carburettor exorcism

F5 gives good advice here. Plug reading as a diagnostic is only really useful on two strokes for WFO use, tuning 4-strokes, and seeing if you have melted aluminum stuck to it after the bike seizes. (melted piston)

If you want to see if the bike is cooling properly, run it up and down your driveway at a moderate pace after you warm the engine. (feel the cylinder head with your to tell when it is warmed properly) After riding for ten or fifteen minutes, if it gets hot enough to boil while riding, it is running hot. If it doesn't, don't worry about it. Also, if your impeller is in good shape, don't worry about installing a billet aluminum impeller. If it fails, and you need to replace it, then think about a billet impeller.

The two best ways that I've found to tell if my engine is running hotter than normal are:
1.If it quits idling for more than a very short period (such as when I'm working trail in the summer at 95+F temps outside), it's getting warmer than normal. (My remedy is to ride without stopping for a while.)
2. I route the transmission vent hose (the hose coming out of the top of the right powervalve area) up along the right side of the frame between the right radiator and the frame; then over the top of the radiator hose (loosely retained to the hose with a zip tie), with the end in plain sight through the top hole in my right radiator shroud.
If the engine is starting to get toward the warmer end of it's safe running temp, the vent hose will puff out a little blue/gray vapor from the engine evaporating a bit of the transmission oil.
This is still not hot enough to do any damage. It is only a "tattle tale" that tells me that I need to ride without stopping, and idling so damn much while working trail in our hot summers in South Arkansas.

Ride, and have fun. Sometimes, I ride around in the yard.
When I first started riding again in 1976 (after a 6 year hiatus when my children were very small), I bought a one year old Yamaha trials bike; a TY250. I not only rode all around the house, but also rode it around inside the house. I kept it parked in the bedroom. (I love the smell of premix in the morning.)

If you feel or observe anything that makes you wonder while you are riding, message me, and I'll try to answer your questions and give you some tips,

Good riding to you.
Jim


.

[Gasser Nate]

Turn the motor over a few times with the kicker to make sure the impellor is actually turning with the engine. I have seen a few of the internal plastic drive gears break. If so bolt it back together and ride it. This has all the hall marks of an overthinker/worrier. Please do not take that the wrong way.

[JayStallion]

Hi all,
Well it's been emotional I have been out riding after checking the impeller I have took all replies on board and the majority of you (all) was right.
I think I was over thinking things for example checking for noises when idling, thinking she was running to hot when idling etc.
But low and behold it was worry for no reason, just get out and ride it and ffs enjoy it and I did..... alot.
I've done a build series of my gas gas ec 300 on my YouTube channel and I have finally put together the last video if you want a laugh please check it out.

https://youtu.be/rnr8lzCj-uw

Thank you to all who helped me get the bike running. I will be back on this beautiful forum looking for mods, questions answers and hopefully I will be the one helping someone else with the knowledge I've gained and still forever gaining.
Much love
Jay

[(F5)]

Well we stopped short of saying HTFU

I was trying to think of another Lock Stock reference which is where I thought you were going with in your opening line.