Factory Needle/Jet Setting EC250

[GMP]

Why screw around? Just replace them if they look questionable. Is the glass resin surface sticky? You don't have to get the old GG RAD valve reeds, they are the same as a Honda CR250 RAD valve from Boyesen. You should have the choice between fiberglass like OEM or Carbon Fiber as well.

[theexception_03]

Reed Valves, I just flipped one side, the petals are now flush, didn't make any difference to the performance.

Anyway I have got the bike to idle, seems to like the 45 pilot, A/S 2 turns out.

The 'miss' that keeps happening is like a rev limiter. This happens with the same needle running different MJ's that i currently have. (175, 178, 180, 185)

I have noticed that at Idle the head light is very dull, as soon as i rev the engine the lights go brighter, I have a feeling this shouldn't happen.

So this is where I am at, Carby is clean, float level good, has new fuel inlet valve. Got new crank oil seal, with all new gaskets on the RHS. I have 2 spark plugs that have the correct gap with very little use, power valve working ok, new air filter, removed throttle cable and re routed it to stop the issue of the idle changing when turning the bars.


I think I will be taking it to the shop, I have tried my best and thanks for all the advice on jetting, I have learned alot.

[Jakobi]

Originally Posted by theexception_03

Reed Valves, I just flipped one side, the petals are now flush, didn't make any difference to the performance.

Anyway I have got the bike to idle, seems to like the 45 pilot, A/S 2 turns out.

The 'miss' that keeps happening is like a rev limiter. This happens with the same needle running different MJ's that i currently have. (175, 178, 180, 185)

I have noticed that at Idle the head light is very dull, as soon as i rev the engine the lights go brighter, I have a feeling this shouldn't happen.

So this is where I am at, Carby is clean, float level good, has new fuel inlet valve. Got new crank oil seal, with all new gaskets on the RHS. I have 2 spark plugs that have the correct gap with very little use, power valve working ok, new air filter, removed throttle cable and re routed it to stop the issue of the idle changing when turning the bars.


I think I will be taking it to the shop, I have tried my best and thanks for all the advice on jetting, I have learned alot.

I think I may have mentioned this before.. But..

If the stumble is between 1/4 throttle and 1/2 throttle and then the crircuit to look at is the needle clip position. Don't give up on yourself yet. If the bike is making a noise like bla bla bla bla bla then its probably a rich condition which sounds more appropriate as its hard to rev through a really rich condition where a lean will either cut out and then take off or just cut out. Think sounds like either boooowaaaahh or booooooooo*stalls*.

From the info you've provided I'd suggest raising the clip 1 position towards the top of the needle and trying again.

Also the stator action is completely normal considering the bike doesn't run a battery so all power for the light comes from the stator. Low revs, lower power being produced, less light. As the revs climb so does the electrical output and if you've ever had a regulator/rectifier pack it in, thats why the bike starts blowing light bulbs. Its feeding too much power to the light. Nothing to stress about in your case

Waiting to hear the next update!

[theexception_03]

Ok, I won't give up.....yet.

I tried this today

N3EW #3
PJ 45
MJ 178
A/S 2

I marked the throttle postions as instructed

Idle good
0 - 1/4 'missing'
1/4 - 1/2 strong in all gears except 1st (I think it just goes to fast thru the rev range in first)
1/2 - WOT is ok but seems to hit red line really quick

I have a feeling that I need to drop down a size in the pilot.

Getting closer now.

FYI, I have a mates 2006 KTM300exc at my place, I kicked it over just to feel the difference between it and the gas gas. The gas gas feels so much crisper and stronger, the KTM seems to feel sluggish to rev up and takes its time getting back to idle once the throttle is closed.

[lonetree]

yep. pilot looks to be too big... try 42, then maybe a 40....
you'll get there.... keep tryin....

[GMP]

Missing how? Blubbering or bogging? It idles good, but do you have the idle screw cranked in far to do it? If it idles good on the pilot ckt without cranking in the screw, that tells me the pilot is good or very close and the "missing" is from the needle. That may be a lean dia. needle for an older 250 with an AS I carb. I've jetted a few 250s and also a Husky WR250 with an AS I conversion, and all prefered a much richer straight section on the needle than a "W" dia. for best off idle torque.

Evaluate jetting under a load, not unloaded in a low gear. Find a safe place with a slight incline.

[theexception_03]

Originally Posted by GMP

Missing how? Blubbering or bogging? It idles good, but do you have the idle screw cranked in far to do it? If it idles good on the pilot ckt without cranking in the screw, that tells me the pilot is good or very close and the "missing" is from the needle. That may be a lean dia. needle for an older 250 with an AS I carb. I've jetted a few 250s and also a Husky WR250 with an AS I conversion, and all prefered a much richer straight section on the needle than a "W" dia. for best off idle torque.

Evaluate jetting under a load, not unloaded in a low gear. Find a safe place with a slight incline.

Blubbering sounds like the word that describes what is happening. but once I open up to 1/2 throttle and the revs start to pick up it feels awesome but very hard to ride at lower revs at 1/4 throttle.
Here are the needles I have NEDW, NECW, N3EW, DDK, N1EC, N1EF...

I can't seem to find a JD Blue without buying the entire jetting kit.

[gasmonkey]

As said before,your nearly there.Drop the pilot a size or two then go to clip 2.Remember,one thing at a time.

[Jakobi]

Originally Posted by gasmonkey

As said before,your nearly there.Drop the pilot a size or two then go to clip 2.Remember,one thing at a time.

Sound advice here!

If you really want to embrace the effect of the pilot circuit open that air screw up some more. Come out a good 3 -3.5 turns just riding around the yard and feel the difference. Then turn it back in to 1/2 a turn out and ride again. I'd be dropping to a 42 or 40 pilot, and then if still not cleaning up raising the clip 1 position.

[theexception_03]

Originally Posted by GMP

Missing how? Blubbering or bogging? It idles good, but do you have the idle screw cranked in far to do it? If it idles good on the pilot ckt without cranking in the screw, that tells me the pilot is good or very close and the "missing" is from the needle. That may be a lean dia. needle for an older 250 with an AS I carb. I've jetted a few 250s and also a Husky WR250 with an AS I conversion, and all prefered a much richer straight section on the needle than a "W" dia. for best off idle torque.

Evaluate jetting under a load, not unloaded in a low gear. Find a safe place with a slight incline.

The idle screw is only about 1 turn out, so yes its in alot.