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Enduro Intake/Carburetion - 2 stroke Jetting, Reeds, Air Filters, etc. |
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#1
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Jetting for 2011 xc300
My new 300 is jetted pretty well for stock. It just seems a little rich on bottom when slow trail riding.
I figured I would drop the needle to lean it out a bit. When I opened the carb this is what I found. n1ef 1st clip 40 pilot 175 main I am about 500 above sea level temps in the 50's. Since I could not lean out the needle any more I switched to a 38 pilot. I only rode the bike up and down the road but it seems ok so far. I looked at the spare needle that came with the bike, it is brass colored and I think it says CHN on it. It looks to be quite a bit leaner. I am guessing it would work well for high elevation. What has anyone else done to the jetting on the new 300's? |
#2
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We need to know what # slide you have....
I think the n1ef is horrible - but note that to get a leaner needle to work well, and it does work much better in my opinion, you need to go up one or two sizes on your pilot jet (e.g. 45 pilot) and reset your air screw and idle screws. Based on what I know from talking to Les - I would start with something in the range of a keihin ddk needle on #3 or #4 clip position and a 45 pilot/178 main. Assuming you have a #7 or #8 slide. Gofasters stocks these needles or something close to it. You can also order from sudco (u.s. importer for keihin) - but they usually have a required minimum order (this may have changed with the bad economy). Other options for carb tuning are to send your carb to RB-Designs for his mods - he makes internal modifications to increase the sensitivity of the idle/pilot circuit and dials in the jetting. Frankly, if it were my bike, the first thing I would do is to measure the squish and have Ron at RB-Designs machine the head to dial in squish and compression for your altitude range and fuel - this is the biggest bang for the buck - better efficiency and bottom end power. For jetting, I have ridden two 300s back to back - one with Ron's carb mods and my own with an LTR jetting kit - The RB bike pulled more cleanly and reved higher - carb bored to 39mm with divider plate installed on the RB carb. jeff p.s. I am a fool to reply to jetting threads - it sometimes turns into a conversation similar to "which chain lube is best" or "which 2 stroke oil is best". Someone can have a jetting combination that works well for them on a given day - but the key is to have a setup that is set up right so that it responds easily and correctly to user adjustments and isn't "finicky". e.g. if you go up in altitude can you adjust via the correction charts in the user manual and be pretty damn close to "spot on" after having a good baseline at close to sea level and 50 degrees, etc. And for minor changes, you can just tweak the air screw a tad and be on your way...
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#3
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The slide is a #7 but it does not have a notch in it. I am pretty sure my KTM has a notched #7.
I have some good needles for the KTM. I wonder if I should give them a try in the GASGAS. I really like the n3ch, has anyone tried one in a GG300? |
#4
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I'm also curious on using the N8RH or N8RW, anyone tried it ?
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Vindicator '11 EC 300R |
#5
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If your havng a lot of trouble consider trying a #8 slide. The 250s as a rule like a #7 even at sea level and the 300 is a bigger pump. From my experience its hard to jet around a rich slide with leaner needles.
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#6
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jetting 300
I ran into same issues. First I believe u have an air striker 2 carb and u need to let everyone her on the site know because there is a huge difference between the regular air striker and air striker 2 and it seems as though everyone on here is only familiar with the air striker. Therefore u can't jet the 2 carbs the same. I am at 1500 ft and my jetting is the following.
168 main #7 slide air screw 1.25 out Jd jetting needle (blue tip) 2 clip from the top 38 pilot The needle is for a yamaha yz 250 same carb that's on your gg
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2011 Nambotin 2010 300 Six Days 2008 Raga 2008 250 xc KTM 2007 200 xc KTM To many KTM's to list 1983 175 IT Yamaha 1995 200 KDX Kawasaki |
#7
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Is anyone able to tell me the difference from the stock N1EF to a N3CH ? is the N3CH leaner than the N1EF ? If so in what range ? I've been comparing the needles you guys use on the 300 with JD's spreadsheet but the N1EF is not in the database. If anyone knows, I would appreciate your help.
Thank you !
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Vindicator '11 EC 300R Last edited by Vindicator; 01-02-2011 at 08:07 AM. |
#8
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Quote:
Stock Needle is N1EF and I couldnt get it to work in the JD Jetting Spreadhseet either. N-O-ZF is the same as N1EF only half a clip leaner. You can use this for comparison. N3EG is a leaner needle, and N3CG is a half clip a clip leaner than N3EG. With the last letters from richest to leanest on needle diamater (0 - 1/8th opening) F, G, H, J. so from Richest to leanest: N1EF NOZF N1EG N3EG N3CH I think thats right. Hope it helps. |
#9
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Thank you Jakobi, and sorry for mixing up the codes , I really meant to say "N1EF" and I've updated my original post.
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Vindicator '11 EC 300R |
#10
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No worries Vindicator. Hope you can find one of those needles to suit your purpose.
I'm using the N3EG in my bike, but personally think the N3CH or N3EJ would be the better choice. I'm just too lazy to go and order another needle and start the jetting process all over again. Maybe when winter rolls around |
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