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Enduro Engine - 2 stroke Cylinder, Piston, Tranny, Bearings, Clutch, Pipes & Silencers, etc.


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Old 02-15-2018, 04:13 PM
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gasser gasser is offline
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It takes more mineral oil in your fuel mix to give the same protection as synthetic so you don't necessarily save money by using a non-synthetic. My personal guide for mixing fuel is at 36/1 for mineral oil(Yammalube), 43/1 for semi-synthetic(Klotz), and 60/1 for full synthetic(Amsoil Dominator or Intercepter). In the 300 gasser the oils flashpoint is very important if you like to lug the bike or ride tight technical terrain. Chose an oil with a flashpoint below 100 degrees centigrade (210 fahrenheit). You can research a specific oil online to find it's flashpoint under technical details. A high flashpoint oil like Motul 800 will load up your engine and exhaust and cause it to run crappy at best or foul plugs at worst.


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Old 02-15-2018, 05:49 PM
swazi_matt swazi_matt is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gasser View Post
It takes more mineral oil in your fuel mix to give the same protection as synthetic so you don't necessarily save money by using a non-synthetic. My personal guide for mixing fuel is at 36/1 for mineral oil(Yammalube), 43/1 for semi-synthetic(Klotz), and 60/1 for full synthetic(Amsoil Dominator or Intercepter). In the 300 gasser the oils flashpoint is very important if you like to lug the bike or ride tight technical terrain. Chose an oil with a flashpoint below 100 degrees centigrade (210 fahrenheit). You can research a specific oil online to find it's flashpoint under technical details. A high flashpoint oil like Motul 800 will load up your engine and exhaust and cause it to run crappy at best or foul plugs at worst.
And this is why I prefer the 710 (just didn’t know it)
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Old 02-17-2018, 06:42 PM
motopsycho87 motopsycho87 is offline
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No it doesn't

Quantity of oil is as important as quality. Remember that it serves to provide a barrier between the piston and bore, by way of oil film, the only way that is achievable is by having a decent quantity of oil, the quality determines how quickly it breaks down and how clean it burns.

What is on the cylinder will be scraped off by the rings on the next stroke. Oil does not magically seep into the nikasil and pop back out when the rings have passed it.

Once again, many dyno runs have proven more oil is better, it reduces friction and promotes better ring sealing.

If your bike starts smoking like a pig at 32:1, then you need to look at your jetting. Fact.

I have no loading up issues in the woods and my bike gets its neck wrung at the Motocross track. Barely any ring wear after 2 years riding between 5-10 hours a week. And bugger all smoke when warm.
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2006 EC300 - HPI CDI - 40pilot, N3CH 2nd clip, 178 main. 33.3:1 (30ml:1l) fully-synth, 12:1CR, 1mm squish. 95KG .5kg front 5.7kg rear, re-valved with custom base valve, factory inox spanny, fmf powercore, k&n air filter
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Old 02-17-2018, 06:49 PM
motopsycho87 motopsycho87 is offline
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https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&so...b5KjB_0KMsmzjh

Old but still relevant.

And another

http://www.3wheelerworld.com/archive...p/t-53212.html

And another

http://www.klemmvintage.com/oils.htm


Just because you run expensive oil in your car doesn't mean you expect it to run on 1 litre...
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2006 EC300 - HPI CDI - 40pilot, N3CH 2nd clip, 178 main. 33.3:1 (30ml:1l) fully-synth, 12:1CR, 1mm squish. 95KG .5kg front 5.7kg rear, re-valved with custom base valve, factory inox spanny, fmf powercore, k&n air filter
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  #15  
Old 02-18-2018, 01:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by motopsycho87 View Post
No it doesn't

Quantity of oil is as important as quality. Remember that it serves to provide a barrier between the piston and bore, by way of oil film, the only way that is achievable is by having a decent quantity of oil, the quality determines how quickly it breaks down and how clean it burns.

What is on the cylinder will be scraped off by the rings on the next stroke. Oil does not magically seep into the nikasil and pop back out when the rings have passed it.

Once again, many dyno runs have proven more oil is better, it reduces friction and promotes better ring sealing.

If your bike starts smoking like a pig at 32:1, then you need to look at your jetting. Fact.

I have no loading up issues in the woods and my bike gets its neck wrung at the Motocross track. Barely any ring wear after 2 years riding between 5-10 hours a week. And bugger all smoke when warm.
I bet if you were to come ride with me in the hills of Tennessee we could get your bike to smoke like a pig too if you run Motul 800 in a 300 2stroke no matter how well it's jetted. We have very rocky, technical hill climbs that will load up a bike thats burning a high flashpoint oil. Tennessee and much of the rest of the world has much steeper and rockier terrain than England (I lived there for 2 years). There is a multitude of good options for 2stroke oils and all seem to do a good job of protecting the motor if used properly which means enough oil for a given operating temperature. The required amount of oil can vary dramatically and is determined by the makeup of the oil - that's why oil companies put a maximum mix ratio on their oils. Just because the KTM or GasGas factory use a full synthetic at 60/1 or 50/1 ratio doesn't mean we can safely do the same with a mineral oil. I have years of experience running a semi-synthetic at 43/1 ratio (Klotz and Champion Water pumper), full synthetic at 50-60/1 (Amsoil Dominator and Intercepter, Motul 710), and even full synthetics designed for 100/1 ratio (Amsoil Saber which I ran at 80/1 in my 300 and 75/1 in my 250). I can't tell any difference in power or how well the engine wears.
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