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Enduro Engine - 2 stroke Cylinder, Piston, Tranny, Bearings, Clutch, Pipes & Silencers, etc. |
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#1
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Clutch Trouble
Hey All,
I am having some trouble with my clutch and hoping someone can help. First let me say that I have 0 experience working with a clutch so bear with me. I got to the dirtbike park today and my clutch was not working...meaning when I pulled the lever nothing happens, if I put the bike in gear it would immediately die. When the bike was shut off I couldn't move the bike unless it was in neutral. I checked lever adjustment and fluid level..good. When I took the cover off I could see the plates moving slightly when I engaged the clutch but was still unable to move the bike in gear. I took apart the clutch basket but to be honest I have no idea what I am looking for/common causes of this problem. I have attached a few pics of my clutch rings and basket to show the condition. Any help is greatly appreciated! Thanks, Sam |
#2
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Using the "wrong" trans oil can cause the plates to stick together,especially if the bike has been sitting for a while.
If you can roll the bike while it is running , put it in 2nd gear and take off, usually the oil will heat up and release the clutch plates. |
#3
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Your clutch basket is deeply grooved. File it down by hand and you are good to go. How I know is I just did mine couple weeks ago.
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#4
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If it was working ok when you last parked it, as gasgasman said... the plates were probably just stuck together. Did you ride it at all before you took it apart? Often when they're stuck if you ride it a bit they will un-stick. Once you are rolling along in gear pull the clutch lever in and step on the brake and gas-it all at the same time. It will usually free-up.
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Steve@Motowest Anaheim, CA 714-526-3234 |
#5
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it is possible that you may need to bleed the clutch.
i have great success by gravity bleeding the system. i dont use the syringe and flush it from the slave cylinder to the master. its easy..... put the bike on a stand and turn the front wheel so that the clutch master cylinder is sort of parrell to the ground, then remove the master cover. fill it with the correct fluid. open the slave cylinder more than a little. sometimes you can even remove the bleeder screw. then it will slowly drain down from the master to the slave. just make sure you keep an eye on the level in the master. dont let it go too low. after about 5 or 6 master cylinder worth of fluid, the air is gone. thats my suggestion.
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2002 Husberg FE650e 2006 GasGas EC300 2014 Sherco SER300 2014 Beta Evo Factory 300 |
#6
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Update
Update:
This morning I reassembled the clutch put new oil in and bled the clutch. I rode it around for 20 minutes or so and it is better than it was but it's still dragging really bad. It will die if I stick it in first gear with the clutch engaged. Yesterday was the first time i tried to use it since I put it away last fall so I was hoping the plates were just stuck together but it seems it may be something more. Dockillemall what part of the basket should I file? and how much? Thanks for everyones help so far! Sam |
#7
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Sam, the grooves in the finger made by the clutch plates. File the grooves out till flat. Metal is soft and with a new file it will go quickly. I also had three cracked fiber plates, you should check for that. What is happening is your plates are getting hung up in the grooves.
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#8
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If the clutch basket fingers look similar to this your plates hang up and the clutch drags. Carefully file down grooves until they are flat but it's really better to replace the basket.
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07 EC 300 (under 500 miles, selling soon) 97 KTM 250 EXC (sold) 2016 Trek Remedy 29er |
#9
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Ok Im gonna try filing ASAP I'll let you guys know how it works.
Thanks! Sam |
#10
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OK so I installed new clutch plates and springs, filed down the basket some and it hasn't totally solved my problem. The bike will keep running in gear with the clutch engaged now but it still has ALOT of drag. If the bike is off I cant move it in gear with the clutch engaged. This may be a stupid question but.....I have the case cover off and when I engage the clutch the top plate moves out only about 1mm or slightly more. Should it be moving more than this? Also does anyone have the correct torque the spring screws should be set to? Any ideas what else could be causing the drag?
Thanks, Sam |
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