Hydraulic Clutch

[Hooligan]

Anyone had issues with the hydraulic clutch on a EC 250 needing to be bled?

I bought my bike used and have only had it a couple of weeks but the clutch does not seem to be fully disengaging when the lever is pulled back. Its kind of an intermittent issue which actually leads me to believe the hydraulics just need to be bled.

I suspect that rapid use of the clutch causes it to be pumped up and work properly but let a bit of time go by before pulling the clutch and hydraulics don't get pumped up and so don't completely disengage the clutch.

Its not a big deal to bleed but just wondering if this is a common issue or just something the former owner neglected?

[twowheels]

Take a look in your master cylinder. Debris or left-over machining award can plug the tiny holes and prevent proper line filling.

[Rick]

Originally Posted by Hooligan

Anyone had issues with the hydraulic clutch on a EC 250 needing to be bled?

I bought my bike used and have only had it a couple of weeks but the clutch does not seem to be fully disengaging when the lever is pulled back. Its kind of an intermittent issue which actually leads me to believe the hydraulics just need to be bled.

I suspect that rapid use of the clutch causes it to be pumped up and work properly but let a bit of time go by before pulling the clutch and hydraulics don't get pumped up and so don't completely disengage the clutch.

Its not a big deal to bleed but just wondering if this is a common issue or just something the former owner neglected?

I find that bleeding from the bottom up works well. Maintaing proper free play lever is critical.

[Hooligan]

How often does the clutch need to be bled? Is this something that will need to be done regularily or just once or twice a season?

I suspect it prob has the original (now four year old) fluid in it so it likely needs to be replaced and completely bled. I don't think the former owner was all that mechanically inclined.

[Zman]

You can sometimes get rid of the air in the system just by pushing the brake or clutch piston back further into its bore. This will force the air that should already be at the top of the line near the master into the reservoir. On brakes this can be as easy as using a flat blade screwdriver to spread the pads while everything is assembled. It helps if you move the handle bars to a position that helps the air move closest to the master.

[Hooligan]

Turns out I was right. The brake fluid was the colour of muddy water. I completely flushed and bled the system with new fluid and the clutch feels much better now. Def no drag when it is disengaged.

[kyton]

I bleed my clutch. But i had to loosen the bleeder as the fluid was not coming out the nipple. Now when i try kick start while in 2nd with lever in the bike launches forward as i kick.

[kyton]

what is the correct procedure to reverse bleed with regards to pulling clutch lever in and loosening the nipple to bleed the system.

[kyton]

How should the clutch feel at the lever. This is my first bike with a hydraulic clutch. Is it meant to be soft / spongy feel or hard. Also what is the symptoms if the clutch has been bleed poorly / incorrectly.

I have tried to bleed mine. The lever feels soft. I can hear something happing at the clutch side if pull the lever in. When cold and i put it in gear the sort of lunges a little. Cannot kick in 2nd gear if the bike is cold.

[Zman]

The clutches have a very light feel to them, but it sounds like you could still have air in the system.