Summer jetting for the pacific Northwest

[reiterrider]

My bike is not running as well as it was this winter/spring.
The current weather is in the 70's
The idle won't come down when I come to a stop.
It feels like I'm having to really fan the clutch allot while I'm climbing or I'm getting out of a hole.
Overall the bottom end is not as good and I'm really having to work the clutch more that I use to.

Here are my current settings:
Bike year & model = 2003 EC-250
Temperature (degF) =50f - 85f
Elevation (feet) =0-3500
Main jet = 175
Pilot jet =40
Needle & notch = EG 2rd clip
Air screw setting = 2
Throttle valve/slide = #6

Should I make some adjustments on my current setup or pony up and get an LTR Kit?

Howie

[2 strokes 4 life]

I would say to get a #8 slide and you would be set. I ride in very similar conditions with N1EF at # 2 from top, 175 main, 35 pilot, 2 turns out air screw, and #8 slide.

[jostby]

I can't figure out how you all can jet so lean when I'm running 48 pilots and 180 mains on both my bikes with little to no smoke when warm. I run LTR needles middle notch on both (-0 needle I think)
reiterrider, are you sure you haven't developed an air/intake leak?

[reiterrider]

Air/intake leak, what's that look like?

BTW I have plenty of smoke and about 3"-4" of spooge on the pipe.

[HydroDog]

Your pilot and main look right, I'm not sure about the needle. Is there any more info on it than EG?
Might also pull off the pipe and power valve cover just to make sure the valve is closing all the way.

[jostby]

Originally Posted by reiterrider

Air/intake leak, what's that look like?

intake boot between the carb and rad valve may have developed a crack, it is also possible to start sucking air at the crank seal behind the flywheel and stator but could be as minor as some dirt in the passages inside the carb. Your symptoms sound like it's started running lean.

[Skidad]

With the warmer temps the bike should be richer but you have lean symptoms (loose pilot jet?). Pull the carb and clean everything really well and blow out with compressed air. Check the airboot and reed cage rubber very carefully (check reeds as well) and tighten clamps and mounting screws. Take your crank case vent hose and submerge it in a small bucket of water and rev the motor. Lots of bubbles indicate a leaking ignition side crank seal. You can also spray some carb clean at different areas while the motor is running and see if the RPM's change which would indicate an air leak. A #8 slide will just make it worse until you find the actual reason why it's happening. Once you figure it out the #7 or #8 slide will improve low speed response and spooge factor.

[reiterrider]

I didn’t have time to trouble shoot the issue with my bike last week.
So I brought a can of carb spray with me on my ride this last weekend.
I sprayed the carb and surround areas, no luck.
They I sprayed it again with more material.
Nothing happened, then I just stared at the left side for about a min, all of a sudden the inlet for the plastic fuel filter popped loose from the filter. It was about 85% broken off and just barely hanging on. Of course gas started to spew everywhere. Luckily I had a spare fuel filter in my tool box and viola, it was fixed, at least the issue with climbing and fanning the clutch to get it off the line.

It still has an issue with high idle after it is warmed up and when I come to a stop.
I have a new jet kit from GoFasters that I will install and test this week.
Thanks to all who responded!

[Skidad]

The Ethanol in gas is causing problems in all sorts of ways. Fuel filters being one of them. Not sure if that's the cause of your failure but certain filters it seems to be attacking and breaking down the filter material, then it gets into the carb and clogs things up. Not good, especially if you have a thumper with the FCR carb.