Taking off the carb EC250

[ejas66]

Hi Folks,

Is it just me being thick or is the carb on an ec250 2006 an absolute bugger to get off and on again?
I have bought a FMF gnarly pipe for it, am I likely to have to re-jet?

Regards
John

[SideshowBob]

Originally Posted by ejas66

Hi Folks,

Is it just me being thick or is the carb on an ec250 2006 an absolute bugger to get off and on again?
I have bought a FMF gnarly pipe for it, am I likely to have to re-jet?

Regards
John

I very gently heat the airbox boot with a MAPP torch to allow it to flex more. Obviously there is gas around, so do this at your own risk and with a fire extinguisher handy.

[jostby]

I hang a drop light against it for a couple minutes. The boot softens up quickly. Or use a hair dryer. I personally wouldn't use a torch, too easy to melt expensive parts. Plus the gasoline factor!
I replaced my kids GG pipe with a Gnarly and didn't need to rejet but I think there is something about the Gnarly pipes that allows the spooge to flow easier. He never had "drippings" out the tailpipe with the GG pipe but does now. Jetting is good and the plug looks great. Mine does the same and I have a Gnarly also.

[skid jackson]

I agree the carb on my 300 can be a bit of a pain in the arse to pull. I use a heat gun (commercial blow dryer) to warm the boot. Makes it a lot easier. The carb on my husky 125 comes off an on in seconds!! easiest carb I ever had to pull

[webmaster]

Hmmm. On my old '01 I could get to everything to rejet without having to remove the carb -

• Loosen the screws clamping the carb to the insulator and the boot to the airbox and remove countersprocket guard.
• Rotate top of carb towards me on countersprocket side of motor, then loosen slide and pull it out.
• With the slide removed, the top of the carb can then be rotated back toward the motor to expose the bottom of carb and remove the carb bowl (replacing phillips with allan screws helps a little here - Ron at RBD sells these in a kit).

jeff

[rpduc]

With the slide removed, the top of the carb can then be rotated back toward the motor to expose the bottom of carb and remove the carb bowl

If only for jetting that's the way I do it.

One note of caution... keep an eye on the pivot pin for the floats. That little sucker can fall out and no tellin' where it might end up if it does. I think I found mine down in the chain...

I also use a heat gun if I have to pull the carb. It's still a "bugger", but maybe not an "absolute bugger."

[gasgasman]

Here's my method.

1) Loosen clamps.
2) Rotate carb away from tank, remove slide.
3)Pull boot off rear of carb and position behind the frame rail to hold in place.
4)Pull carb out of reed boot and rotate 90 degrees, with carb outlet facing you.
5)Simply remove.

[iancp5]

Originally Posted by ejas66

Hi Folks,

Is it just me being thick or is the carb on an ec250 2006 an absolute bugger to get off and on again?
I have bought a FMF gnarly pipe for it, am I likely to have to re-jet?

Regards
John

It IS an absolute bugger but it does come off. Lot easier if you can loosen the subframe and pull it up a little to clear the airbox. To rejet you don't need to remove it. Just loosen the manifold and airbox and rotate the carb as required. You may have to remove the case saver / sprocket guard. You shouldn't need to rejet for the pipe unless it was wrong already.

[iancp5]

Originally Posted by SideshowBob

I very gently heat the airbox boot with a MAPP torch to allow it to flex more. Obviously there is gas around, so do this at your own risk and with a fire extinguisher handy.

What!
Crazy man. MAPP is well hot!!! A hot air gun maybe.

[SideshowBob]

Originally Posted by iancp5

What!
Crazy man. MAPP is well hot!!! A hot air gun maybe.

I kept it about 15" away....