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Enduro Engine - 2 stroke Cylinder, Piston, Tranny, Bearings, Clutch, Pipes & Silencers, etc.


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Old 07-23-2018, 04:31 PM
Trailrider Trailrider is offline
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Default Clutch question

My new to me 2010 EC300 runs fine except for the clutch. Actually the clutch works fine when engaged, the problem is about half the time when I let out the lever it jerks or lurches. The lever itself is smooth, the clutch basket looks new. Could it be something with the slave cylinder? Where can I get parts, it is an AJP and they went bankrupt. Any help appreciated.


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Old 07-23-2018, 05:02 PM
Neil E. Neil E. is offline
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No direct experience on this but maybe the Oring on the slave piston has "rolled". It is losing any fluid from the reservoir over time? Any chance someone has put the wrong fluid in and messed up the seals?
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Old 07-23-2018, 05:46 PM
Trailrider Trailrider is offline
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Default Clutch question

The clutch does not leak anywhere, in fact it is perfect except for the lurch on take off (sometimes). I may investigate the slave cylinder but I don't have experience with it, was hoping I could smooth it out without messing with the slave.
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Old 07-23-2018, 07:17 PM
memphis2857 memphis2857 is offline
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Matto Cycle will ha e the parts for the AJP. They are still in business under a different name. I believe it’s braktech or something like that.

On another note, I had this happen before and it was the master cylinder that was going bad. Instead of fiddling with the inferior AJP stuff, I just bought a Magura hymec 167 master cylinder. It’s a direct replacement. If you go this route you need to get the 9.5mm one. Got mine on Amazon.


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Old 07-23-2018, 07:49 PM
Trailrider Trailrider is offline
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Default Clutch problem

Thanks Memphis,
I may buy a new master cylinder if necessary.
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Old 07-24-2018, 03:10 AM
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Default Clutch question

Any other suggestions welcome, I am not in a hurry to buy a new master cylinder.
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Old 07-24-2018, 06:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trailrider View Post
Any other suggestions welcome, I am not in a hurry to buy a new master cylinder.
How are your steel plates? Straight or warped? Warped plates may lead to the clutch engaging abruptly.
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Old 07-24-2018, 07:33 AM
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I really don't think that it's anything to do with the clutch actuator system (master and slave cylinder). I believe that your issue is with gear box fluid weight. The GG clutches chatter at engagement with the certain fluid weight. I recommend that you try different weights of transmission fluid. I had good results with a 50/50 blend of Type F ATF and 10w30 motor oil. It's cheap enough to change the trans fluid that you can test different blends to find what suits you. Oil weight has a significant affect on clutch engagement, so spend a couple of $ and figure out what works best for you. It is a LOT easier to change gear fluid than swapping seals.

Don't forget to look at straight weight gear oil along with multi weight motor oil. Heavier weight oil will also cause clutch drag (hard to find neutral); once I swapped to the 50/50 blend it was very easy for me to find neutral with the bike running as well as reduced engagement chatter.
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Old 07-24-2018, 03:52 PM
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I agree. What oil you run can make a big difference. I run full ATF type F in all my bikes as it smooths out shifting and makes finding neutral easier. Plus, it's reasonably cheap and can be found at most auto parts stores.
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Old 07-24-2018, 04:42 PM
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Default Clutch question

I am running straight ATF Type F. Someone said to try Amsoil 0w-40, I may try some if I can find it.
This is my 4th GasGas and the only one with clutch trouble, all the others were very smooth.
I don't really want to take apart the master cylinder as the action is fine.
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