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Enduro Engine - 2 stroke Cylinder, Piston, Tranny, Bearings, Clutch, Pipes & Silencers, etc. |
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#1
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Clutch question
My new to me 2010 EC300 runs fine except for the clutch. Actually the clutch works fine when engaged, the problem is about half the time when I let out the lever it jerks or lurches. The lever itself is smooth, the clutch basket looks new. Could it be something with the slave cylinder? Where can I get parts, it is an AJP and they went bankrupt. Any help appreciated.
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#2
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No direct experience on this but maybe the Oring on the slave piston has "rolled". It is losing any fluid from the reservoir over time? Any chance someone has put the wrong fluid in and messed up the seals?
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2011 EC250E |
#3
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Clutch question
The clutch does not leak anywhere, in fact it is perfect except for the lurch on take off (sometimes). I may investigate the slave cylinder but I don't have experience with it, was hoping I could smooth it out without messing with the slave.
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#4
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Matto Cycle will ha e the parts for the AJP. They are still in business under a different name. I believe it’s braktech or something like that.
On another note, I had this happen before and it was the master cylinder that was going bad. Instead of fiddling with the inferior AJP stuff, I just bought a Magura hymec 167 master cylinder. It’s a direct replacement. If you go this route you need to get the 9.5mm one. Got mine on Amazon. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
#5
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Clutch problem
Thanks Memphis,
I may buy a new master cylinder if necessary. |
#6
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Clutch question
Any other suggestions welcome, I am not in a hurry to buy a new master cylinder.
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#7
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How are your steel plates? Straight or warped? Warped plates may lead to the clutch engaging abruptly.
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Anders "So you know, that you're over the hill when your mind makes a promise that your body can't fill" (Little Feat: Old Folks Boogie) 2015 EC200 Racing: TE bars, Rekluse Core Exp 3.0, 38mm Lectron & Ohlins S3 steering damper 2006 EC200: 2011 plastics, Rekluse Z-Start, revalved KYB forks & Scotts steering damper 1998 Bimota Supermono 1986 Duc Mille S2 1975 Guzzi sidecar hack 1961 Morini Corsaro 125 etc |
#8
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I really don't think that it's anything to do with the clutch actuator system (master and slave cylinder). I believe that your issue is with gear box fluid weight. The GG clutches chatter at engagement with the certain fluid weight. I recommend that you try different weights of transmission fluid. I had good results with a 50/50 blend of Type F ATF and 10w30 motor oil. It's cheap enough to change the trans fluid that you can test different blends to find what suits you. Oil weight has a significant affect on clutch engagement, so spend a couple of $ and figure out what works best for you. It is a LOT easier to change gear fluid than swapping seals.
Don't forget to look at straight weight gear oil along with multi weight motor oil. Heavier weight oil will also cause clutch drag (hard to find neutral); once I swapped to the 50/50 blend it was very easy for me to find neutral with the bike running as well as reduced engagement chatter.
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Phil (New bike pending...) |
#9
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I agree. What oil you run can make a big difference. I run full ATF type F in all my bikes as it smooths out shifting and makes finding neutral easier. Plus, it's reasonably cheap and can be found at most auto parts stores.
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WildAzzRacing YouTube channel Trail Riders of Southern AZ club AZ State Parks OHV Ambassador '11 EC250R '98 KDX220 |
#10
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Clutch question
I am running straight ATF Type F. Someone said to try Amsoil 0w-40, I may try some if I can find it.
This is my 4th GasGas and the only one with clutch trouble, all the others were very smooth. I don't really want to take apart the master cylinder as the action is fine. |
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