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Enduro Chassis & Body Enduro Frame, Plastic, Brakes, Bars, Controls, wheels, tires, sprockets & gearing.


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  #11  
Old 01-21-2012, 03:41 PM
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cbutler cbutler is offline
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Sounds like the washer is in backwards, the bearings should turn. When you torqued the axle it will be worse.


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  #12  
Old 01-22-2012, 02:52 PM
400_racer 400_racer is offline
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All fine now Just checked by sliding the spindle through and applying a bit of radial load and they spun freely. So put the bearing in the other side and then tried it on the bike all tightened up (without the main wheel seals) and they span lovely! They also spin fine now off the bike too.

I guess they just needed setting and coupled with adding more grease inside them before fitting made them hard to turn initially.

Thanks for your repsonse

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  #13  
Old 09-30-2012, 07:47 AM
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LAWMAN LAWMAN is offline
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Here's a little mystery for you GasGas scholars: I needed to change the rear wheel bearings in my '07 300 for the 1st time (haven't been able to ride it much til lately). I read this thread 3 times & studied the photos of the washer at length.

I got out this morning before church & banged out the old bearings & surprise: No washer! I went ahead & changed the bearings & they seem fine, except that if I go all the way to 60 ft. Lbs. On my torque wrench, the wheel binds, but it will go to about 59 lbs., so that may be just the tolerances in the wrench.

So is my bike missing a part it should have, or did they make a change at the factory on the fly?
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  #14  
Old 09-30-2012, 12:02 PM
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GasGas GasGas is offline
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Yes, you are missing the spacer between the bearings. The original is aluminum, but they wear out and bend into the other bearing causing it to bind. I just made a replacement made from steel.
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  #15  
Old 10-01-2012, 01:42 PM
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LAWMAN LAWMAN is offline
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ok thanks!
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  #16  
Old 02-07-2014, 04:11 PM
imsimon imsimon is offline
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Does the spacer come in a bearing kit or do you just use the one that comes out? Couldnt see where I could buy one (uk) i know some have made there own but im not clever like that!
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  #17  
Old 03-24-2014, 12:19 PM
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Just another thought because I am changing my bearings currently. The bigger bearing is specified as "6005 2RSR C3". This is a special bearing with greater bearing clearance. Using a standard 6005 bearing, which has identical dimensions, could cause binding of the wheel because of too little axial clearance.

Peter
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  #18  
Old 03-24-2014, 09:04 PM
thumperflipper thumperflipper is offline
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Lawman, I changed my bearings when I first bought my used 07...The washer I took out was totally fried...smashed flat and distorted in several ways. Factory install? Replaced wrong by prior owner? I bought new bearings from Mark at Gofasters, and he included the "updated" washer with the bearings and helped me with orientation of it. Good people there. 2 years of riding without any binding
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  #19  
Old 04-07-2014, 09:40 PM
MNKeith MNKeith is offline
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After wrestling with wheel bearings over the years and now most recently with some very, very corroded rears out of my '08, I found the best tool to date on removing these damn things.

This set of pry bars, I use the 12" for wheel bearing removal. Narrow enough to get a bite but long/strong enough to smack it with a 5lb sledge.
http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-to...set-68339.html

Get the inner wheel spacer tilted so you can get the pry bar tip on the inner lip of the old bearing, then WACK. Done. No more chisel, stake or screwdriver attempts.
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  #20  
Old 04-08-2014, 06:13 PM
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Just to clarify..im buying barings tomorrow..is it 2 6004rs and 1 6005rs barings I need?? 2007 ec 300

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