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Enduro Suspension Tuning & maintenance of Enduro forks, shocks, etc |
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#11
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I think I have them written down some where...I'll have to look. I will tell you what I remember, .45kg springs, 3/w oil @ 130mm I am running a very slight bleed on the base valve, at first I converted the MV to a check valve, which worked ok except for bigger G-outs and rutted down hills...then they blew thru the stroke too quickly. I went back to a MV set up and after trying a few variations I ended up with using a 10 (thickness) face shim and about 1.25mm of float. I heard a 10 is too thin and gets hammered too quickly...but so far I haven't see this with a 100 hours on the bike. Next time I'm in the fork I'll switch them out for some new ones and RR the bushings. I had to stiffen up the rebound "a lot"...it took 3 tries to get enough resistance to put the clickers somewhere in the middle. I think heavier springs are a must do, the stockers are too soft and cause the fork to ride too far into the stroke. I ride single track, lots of wet greasy roots and rocks and occasionally some high speed 2 track. No jumping, so I valved them accordingly. They work pretty darn good, I switched bikes with some other guys I ride with and every one thought that my bike felt plush..yet planted and in control, a couple of them had some high dollar re-valves. |
#12
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Darn computers! I´ve got mine running again but no Office or restackor yet...
Hmm, didnt your forks come with a CV from the factory? Mine blows through aswell not enough lowspeed damping but a tad harsh on highspeed edges. I have .48 springs right now. added rebound but feels like I need more HS rebound. I do MX aswell as tight singletrack woods and fast gravel roads. But 3w oil?? Whats the CST on that oil? |
#13
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If your using the same bike for mx as well as single track woods, your not going to get the best of both worlds, specially if you hucking some big hits. I wanted a certain amount of blow through on the fork to soak up the bigger roots...which here in Hawaii are like a 2x12 standing on edge...we have very few rounded roots. Tuning for this type of terrain was tough, it's like nothing I have ever ridden in the mainland. You might have more leeway where your at. I tried 5W oil and it was noticeably harsher, 3w sounds crazy but it was the ticket for me. I tried so many different combinations to get what I wanted, it literally took me 6 months of testing and re working the suspension to get it right. Granted, I'm only a weekend rider and a garage tuner. Also, feel what the fork is doing, I wavered between too much rebound and too little during my testing different stack arrangements. At one point I could feel the fork soak up the bump nicely but then it would kick back too hard, I knew the rebound was too soft. When I had the stack too stiff I could feel it pack...which was a different kind of harsh...I was now zeroing in on the right combination. It took a few more tries but I was on the right track. A good tuner would have gotten a lot closer and a lot quicker, but I like to DYI for the fun of it. |
#14
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Hi guys,
I tried also to tune my Shiver 45 model 2006 myself. Remember you can't compare different marzocchi year models. Because there are different BV , pistons and RB cartridges. I think in 2006 and 2008 came many changes. Which Shiver 45 modell do you have? Quote:
You have to know that the SAE weight system has a very broad and vague viscosity range and does not even cover the viscosity range that most quality motorcycle suspension systems require. Finally I use a 7,5 but this is a mix 1:1 Motul Expert SAE 5 and SAE 10 this viscosity is near the Marzocchi fork oil of 26,1 cSt@40C Also my float is lower - 1mm. That you use a 22x0.10 MV face shim and it works longer is interesting. I will try it also and replace my 22x0.15. my air gap is 110mm but my fork still strike through 45N/mm springs are OK for 86kg driver may be we can compare the stacks anyway
__________________
Husqvarna TE 300 |
#15
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I have ever ridden. I lived in a few different places in the mainland and usually a first valve adjustment or a race tech kit would do the job just fine, but here in Hawaii this jungle single track stuff is littered with roots that resemble boards standing on edge, then add water, greasy mud, rocks, slimy moss, pipe deep ruts, "on and on" it's some shitty stuff. Valving for this type of riding may be way out in left field for most other situations. |
#16
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I've ridden in Kauai and there is some real alien terrain there. I'm particularly fond of the small dia. tree that grows sideways along the ground, hidden by ferns, then makes a turn up. Very high fork and shock speed (not bike speed) oriented. That said I think the stuff I have here, and the tough NETRA stuff with all the imbedded square edge rocks requires a very similar setup, although overall there is much better traction than the Hawaiian obstacles. There are very few places where you can get out of 4th gear for any time, either the trail is tight or so littered with trash you will flat, bend rims, or crash if you push it too hard for too long.
The difference in the Zokes I have been into is the piston bleed holes. The '07s have a bleed hole in the rebound piston, Husky Zokes don't. BV bleed holes are different sizes. I'm running what Les set up for me in the BV, but added a light MV with approx 1.45mm float and a .15mm face shim(the Zokes may be eaiser on MV face shims and I'll try a .10, but WPs destroy .10s). Spectro 125/150 oil (approx 7 W) and .44s with very little spring preload. Too much preload on too soft springs is one big mistake and makes the fork feel harsh on small stuff and still use too much travel. The other, like was said many times, is the loose rebound being mistaken for a compression problem. When in doubt try one range stiffer spring with 1- 2mm preload. This has worked out to be the best fork I have ever ridden in my terrain, and would not want a Sachs fork equipped bike for this reason. |
#17
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Except for the cart rod stopper...it looked like a peened on unit where the marz uses a split nut. I don't see why they can't be valved to be every bit as good as the Marz??? I agree with what you said about the spring rate...IMHO...having the proper spring rate is a must, the first thing to change before any valving is addressed. |
#18
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My LS Comp is still to soft and my HS Comp is still to stiff. What can I do. The air gap and spring is OK.
__________________
Husqvarna TE 300 |
#19
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For me it was tricky to find a balance between to fork being too soft (blowing thru the stroke too fast and too deep) and being to harsh. I already knew I had to vastly stiffen up the rebound circuit because of the stiffer springs...and even stock it felt too light. I could feel the fork absorb the bump ok but then I could feel the bars kick back too quickly. I think the balance is found in the MV, enough float to blow open to take the hit, but still not blow too far into the stroke. I used a 10 face shim so it could open quickly for the smaller high speed stuff. I also have 10 bleed shim on the BV but I limited it's travel, so that it only flow a slight amount of oil...my goal was to soften the HS enough but not too much. It took several tries to get the fork working how I wanted it. |
#20
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from 21 x 0,1 19 x 0,1 17 x 0,1 15 x 0,1 to 22 x 0,1 22 x 0,1 19 x 0,1 19 x 0,1 17 x 0,1 17 x 0,1 15 x 0,1 13 x 0,1 The kick back from the bar isn't the problem. When I jump and land first with rear wheel and then hard with the front it feels too harsh - I guess to much HS Comp. Quote:
MV with 1mm float 15 x 0,1 15 x 0,2 15 x 0,3 15 x 0,3 18 x 0,1 22 x 0,15 Quote:
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Husqvarna TE 300 |
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