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General Discussions & Announcements General Announcements, General Questions, e.g. What bike do I buy?, etc.


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  #11  
Old 06-05-2012, 01:09 PM
Rider_wv Rider_wv is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fred1956 View Post
Nice bike! and a big thumbs up for the Geigerrig !

As far as sag- most success has been found with pre load on the CORRECT rate spring in the 10-12mm range and let the sag fall where it will. I believe the stock spring is 5.2 and is ok for up to about 180 lbs ungeared rider. look here for a ton of info from the gurus here http://www.gasgasrider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1628
thanks for the sag info, I will check preload tonight. I am 180 in street clothes so the spring rate should be close.


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  #12  
Old 06-05-2012, 01:13 PM
Rider_wv Rider_wv is offline
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Originally Posted by thumperrider1 View Post
Two good needles to try are the NEDJ and N3CJ. I have tried a bunch of setups using jakobi's posts and these two needles worked great. N3CJ has more hit. The NEDJ is perfect for gnarly singletrack.
I will pick those up ASAP. Normal riding elevation is 500-2k ft, unless we go the mountains then its 2k-4kft. Thanks for the info I will probably try the NEDJ first.
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  #13  
Old 06-05-2012, 01:17 PM
Rider_wv Rider_wv is offline
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Some of the easy singletrack at Hatfield McCoy's Little Coal River trailhead. I was just cruising since rocks and no armor are a bad combo...

http://youtu.be/sEXxLZtCMTQ?hd=1
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  #14  
Old 06-05-2012, 02:39 PM
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Clay Clay is offline
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Originally Posted by Rider_wv View Post
My local dealer is Appalachian Offroad Motorcycles, in Crosslanes, WV. They are great guys to deal with and they gave me a good deal on the GasGas. I ride with some of the employees almost every weekend.

I plug them in the post ride video

A big thanks to AOMC for carrying GasGas. I had to go back saturday to order parts, I was so excited to get the new bike home and tear up my yard I forgot to order armor when I picked it up.

Clay, just a quick question...should the rear sag be set to 100mm?
I like my rear sag at 105mm rider and 30 to 35mm rider sag.
If you're at 180 w/o gear, I'd advise you to get heavier springs. Prolly a 5.4 rear and .44s front. Add I turn on the PFP valve.
If this is an kick start model, get your dealer to call Go Fasters. They should have your full on AXP plastic skid plate. If it is an e start, then the plates are being shipped from Spain this week. I just got the owner's CD and will be mailing them out this week to the dealers.
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  #15  
Old 06-05-2012, 07:04 PM
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Jakobi Jakobi is offline
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Nice video. Diggin the accent! "Call me old lazy!" gold mate!

"Its still too rich" ..thumperider has already dropped the beans on my suggestions there. I'll just elaborate a tad. NEDJ/NECJ work well with the 300s for linear pull. They are OEM Suzuki needles. The N3EJ/N3CJ work well for more of a snappy mx delivery. They are OEM Yamaha/KTM and I wouldn't be surprised if you had a N3EJ in your YZee. The C for both needles indicates a half a clip position leaner. I also find they are about the same between brands across clip pos. The NEDJ/NECJ has a third taper and will use a main approx 2 sizes smaller than you'd use with the dual taper N3EJ/N3CJ. Much more to read in the jetting section. Big fuel savings to be found over stock too.

Suspension I have taken a bit from everywhere. Get the springs that give you the correct sag with the least preload. at 205lbs in gear this is a .46 and 5.4 for me. With the 5.4 on my 2010 I started at 10mm preload and had to add a few more turns so didn't measure again. Have 35mm free sag and around 100mm race with no gear on. I also question the accuracy of the race sag measuring because its so variable depending on body position. My body is always moving back and forwards on the seat when I ride so in theory the sag would be varied as well. It'll fall between 105-115mm when geared up which is ace.

Great videos too! Most enjoyed
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  #16  
Old 06-05-2012, 07:52 PM
Rider_wv Rider_wv is offline
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Thanks for the info Clay and jakobi. I may pull the needle out f the Yz and see which one it is, it's been a long time since I had it out. I will dive into the suspension and jetting threads and start reading.

I guess I need to go on a diet, I really didn't want to respring but if I have to that's not a big deal.

Jakobi I don't have an accent, you guys down under have an accent hahahaaha!
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  #17  
Old 06-05-2012, 09:12 PM
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Jakobi Jakobi is offline
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Sounds like a plan!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NVWBW...eature=related
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  #18  
Old 06-06-2012, 09:51 AM
AZRickD AZRickD is offline
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I saw your FlexxBars with ProBends. The money I save by not purchasing a Rekluse EXP will go toward the Flexx. I'd like an integral Flexx/Guard set up with something in Scotts damper under-bar mount. I'll have to consult with Flexx and my local FlexxBar dealer to figure that out.
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  #19  
Old 06-06-2012, 10:03 AM
Rider_wv Rider_wv is offline
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I LOVE my Flexx bars. If I end up keeping the YZ I will get a new set for the Gasser and put the old ones back on the YZ. I have the Flexx mounts for the probends but Cycra now makes Pro bends specific to the Flex bars that do not require the extra mounts, that are quite heavy I might add.

Fasstco also sells cross bars that fit steering dampers as well.

I must say that with standard bars my wrists are hurting and my hands are numb within 30-45min of riding. With the Flexx bars I can ride all day with no wrist pain and very minimal numbness at any point during the day. They feel odd at first but after a day or two riding with them, they completely disappear, you cant tell they are there until you get on a bike with standard bars.

http://www.fasstco.com/shop/flexx-ha...-handlebars-mx

http://store.cycraracing.com/crmprforflba.html

I had a really hard time spending that much on bars, especially bars that heavy. They are beefy and no matter how hard I crash they have held up perfect. I biffed hard enough to snap off a titanium footpeg and the bars are perfect.
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  #20  
Old 06-06-2012, 10:19 AM
AZRickD AZRickD is offline
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I have to remark on the GG e-start.

Over the last two weeks I've watched five different videos on the 2012 GG with e-starts. Every one of them seem to start in a split second after touching the button.

The KTM 2T e-starts tend to go "wakka-wakka-wakka" before lighting up.

I hope this is not just mental sample bias on my part.
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