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  #21  
Old 10-08-2015, 05:03 PM
gasgasxc gasgasxc is offline
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Depending on weight and skill in 70% of conditions you should be able to rail on the 200 eventually.The 250 is the killer in the Gas Gas lineup.Most guys are faster on the 200 and 250 then the 300.1 out of 5 300 riders can ride the 300 for all its worth.

The powervalved 250 exterminated the AMA 500 class because lap timed on the 250s were faster.In the 500s last years even the 125s were putting a beating on them.The big bore is for the most part a Big Boy bike.Sorry.But that's the truth.


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  #22  
Old 10-08-2015, 05:57 PM
gasgasxc gasgasxc is offline
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I agree with most in here that the 200 is a bit underpowered.
But every Gas Gas I've bought over the years has had mods.
Most of the early Gas Gas enduros were bought by racers and fast guys who set them up.

You can't even compare an early Gasser to a KTM of the same era.
The Gasser beats it everywhere.As far as mods go.The Gasser engine is by far superior to build into a weapon then the KTMs.The mods for Gasser weren't just for show.
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  #23  
Old 10-08-2015, 06:41 PM
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One other thing you may wish to check is the PV that it is actually functioning properly. When my PV jammed open it ran very poorly off the bottom (as expected), however also sounded like the bottom end was about to let go.

You've got a bit to work with and investigate by any means.
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  #24  
Old 10-09-2015, 12:31 PM
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12Bravo 12Bravo is offline
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Update:

Fixed the seal, for now.

The front sprocket is 12T rear is 48T, so what does this mean?

If I went to a larger front say 13T and a larger Rear say 50T what would happen?
Is this 12/48 mainly a track set up, would that explain the hold on snappy I was talking about?

Thanks
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  #25  
Old 10-09-2015, 03:11 PM
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nknudsen nknudsen is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 12Bravo View Post
Update:

Fixed the seal, for now.

The front sprocket is 12T rear is 48T, so what does this mean?

If I went to a larger front say 13T and a larger Rear say 50T what would happen?
Is this 12/48 mainly a track set up, would that explain the hold on snappy I was talking about?

Thanks
Just divide the rear sprocket tooth # by the front sprocket # to more easily compare ratios. Think of it like a vehicle axle ratio, a 4.10 will be snappier but slower than a faster 3.08 It's easy enough to throw a 13 on the front and see what you think.
12 / 48 combo = 4.0
13 / 50 combo = 3.85
13 / 48 combo = 3.69
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16' Ski-Doo XS Renegade X 1200 4T
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72' Olds 500ci, Batten Heads, Street/Drag car, former CarCraft magazine centerfold (has-been)
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  #26  
Old 10-09-2015, 03:30 PM
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12Bravo 12Bravo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nknudsen View Post
Just divide the rear sprocket tooth # by the front sprocket # to more easily compare ratios. Think of it like a vehicle axle ratio, a 4.10 will be snappier but slower than a faster 3.08 It's easy enough to throw a 13 on the front and see what you think.
12 / 48 combo = 4.0
13 / 50 combo = 3.85
13 / 48 combo = 3.69
Thanks,

I think I will try a 13 on the front and see what happens. If anything, I may not like it and just put the 12 back on.

That would put me at 3.69 this would give me a base at 4.0 to go off of in the future.
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  #27  
Old 10-09-2015, 09:38 PM
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barossi73 barossi73 is offline
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Stock 200 gearing is 13/50.Cant confirm,but have heard that running a 12front chews out your chain slider faster.if you put a 13 on front with your 48 your gears will all be a little longer(higher max speed,gears spread further apart)
This will make the hit feel a little softer,but makes the jump to each gear a little wider(this can be a nuisance as it can make your 1st gear a little fast for very tight work,and also on a long hillclimb you may have to sit a gear lower,as the jump up to the next gear may be too wide to get up on the power)
If you ride faster,more open terrain it wont be a problem unless youve geared it so high it wont pull top gear
A 13t front will prob be around $20,have a close look at your chain slider for wear from the 12t when you change it out
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  #28  
Old 10-10-2015, 09:00 AM
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Lots of good info provided already. Does it look like it has several gaskets or a thick gasket under the cylinder? The previous owner could have focused on high rpm power band. One way to do that is to push the cylinder higher.

You mentioned it either stalls or takes off. Does it idle ok? To build on what others have said, the pilot jet or slide cut away could be way off and you are feeling a transition from a rich mixture to a proper mixture and that will enhance the feel of the "hit".

If you open your ignition cover do you see oil or smell gas? Does your trans oil smell like gas? Either will point you toward bad crank seals. The older bikes used seals that were not compatible with fuels with high levels of alcohol and fail. This will also mess with your AF mixture and can result in odd operation like you are experiencing.
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  #29  
Old 10-10-2015, 02:11 PM
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Ok, after re-read this post and seeing where I am with this bike. This is what I have come up with, correct me if I am wrong or am going in the wrong direction.

Bike is running rich in the lower RPM range.
Having lots of spooge is caused from running rich or having higher flashpoint oil, mine is a 175 degree F oil, leads me to think again I am running rich.

I pulled the needle and I have "N1EC" on the 3rd Clip, which is into the rich area, right?

I pulled the pilot jet, I think, the one that is straight under the drain cap and uses a 6mm socket to get out. There is NO marking on it, at ALL, nothing. Just a brass thingy...lol.

SO, I have no clue what my jet is, I know the needle is on a rich setting.

Should I just move the clip up one or two and see how it runs? Or, pull the jet, replace with a marked on and get a baseline from there?
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  #30  
Old 10-10-2015, 02:12 PM
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12Bravo 12Bravo is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zman View Post
Lots of good info provided already. Does it look like it has several gaskets or a thick gasket under the cylinder? The previous owner could have focused on high rpm power band. One way to do that is to push the cylinder higher.

You mentioned it either stalls or takes off. Does it idle ok? To build on what others have said, the pilot jet or slide cut away could be way off and you are feeling a transition from a rich mixture to a proper mixture and that will enhance the feel of the "hit".

If you open your ignition cover do you see oil or smell gas? Does your trans oil smell like gas? Either will point you toward bad crank seals. The older bikes used seals that were not compatible with fuels with high levels of alcohol and fail. This will also mess with your AF mixture and can result in odd operation like you are experiencing.
It looks like it has one regular gasket under the cylinder.
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