How to know if the bike is running lean?

[gasman88]

Originally Posted by barossi73

The plug has some use,but the key is its relative to how the bike was ridden last/rider style.a lot of puttering will darken,look rich/a wot run right before pulling plug will show a greyer/hot/drier leaner looking plug.
Pay attention to where the problem areas are-pilot=0-1/8 with a small affect to 1/4.main=3/4 to wot.needle type/clip=everything in between.
With that needle the best youl likely get is ok 0-1/8,blubber 1/8-1/4,then whack,clean mid hit to wot.
The blubber just before the hit makes it difficult in tight technical stuff.if you ride wot/fast the mid to top hit is fine,but when you roll on/off it may burble then hit.changing needle type will help get a smoother transition

Sorry for bring up an old post but that is dead on how my bike runs. From idle to maybe 1/4 throttle it blubbers a little. It gas gotten better after I put the clip on the very top clip position and put a 40 pilot in it compared to the 45 that was in it. It used to do it in first in second. Now it's mainly first. I looked tonight and it does have the n1ef needle and number 7 slide. Anything past 1/4 throttle she runs like a raped ape. That blubber is very annoying to me though, and can't have it in the woods where I need power. It was about 55 degrees outside today and I'm at about 200 ft above sea level. 180 main, 40 pilot, air screw seems best around 2 1/2 turns out, n1ef needle at leanest setting. Idle screw is way far in which tells me something is not right. Cleaned and blew everything out of carb, installed new Reeds today. I let it idle for a while in my garage and took it for some high speed runs up my road. Like I said, she hits hard over 1/4 throttle. I still think my pilot is a little rich. I have a 38 I could try. Also smokes at idle but clears up when riding. Smells like good old 2 stroke oil.

[SS109]

Originally Posted by gasman88

Sorry for bring up an old post but that is dead on how my bike runs. From idle to maybe 1/4 throttle it blubbers a little. It gas gotten better after I put the clip on the very top clip position and put a 40 pilot in it compared to the 45 that was in it. It used to do it in first in second. Now it's mainly first. I looked tonight and it does have the n1ef needle and number 7 slide. Anything past 1/4 throttle she runs like a raped ape. That blubber is very annoying to me though, and can't have it in the woods where I need power. It was about 55 degrees outside today and I'm at about 200 ft above sea level. 180 main, 40 pilot, air screw seems best around 2 1/2 turns out, n1ef needle at leanest setting. Idle screw is way far in which tells me something is not right. Cleaned and blew everything out of carb, installed new Reeds today. I let it idle for a while in my garage and took it for some high speed runs up my road. Like I said, she hits hard over 1/4 throttle. I still think my pilot is a little rich. I have a 38 I could try. Also smokes at idle but clears up when riding. Smells like good old 2 stroke oil.

Finding your proper pilot jet is the easiest to figure out. Keep going smaller or larger on the PJ until your highest idle on the air screw is approximately 1.5 turns out. That simple! From there it makes it easier to figure out your main and needle.

[(F5)]

Haven't we been here before?

At closed you should be on pilot. Unless the base diameter of the needle is too small (when throttle is closed fastest part of needle is still leaving a big ring around it) , then big fat wet droplets of fuel will be escaping past the needle and the nice spray from the pilot is irrelevant.


So yes, the needle can affect closed to open unlike the otherwise spot on description of what alters what.

Throw away that N1EF and get another needle.

[memphis2857]

Originally Posted by (F5)

Haven't we been here before?



At closed you should be on pilot. Unless the base diameter of the needle is too small (when throttle is closed fastest part of needle is still leaving a big ring around it) , then big fat wet droplets of fuel will be escaping past the needle and the nice spray from the pilot is irrelevant.





So yes, the needle can affect closed to open unlike the otherwise spot on description of what alters what.



Throw away that N1EF and get another needle.

To further clarify F5’s post. The needle sets in the main jet. So the needle jet is affected by the main jet. If you are on a stock needle still, start with a 175 main and 40p. That should clean it up but it’s still not going to run very well simply because the stock N1EF is a flaming pile of poo and needs to be pitched in the trash bin.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[(F5)]

Cmon say what you really think

[gasman88]

I ordered a couple different needles the other night. They were recommended in some post on here. They are n3cf and a N3EG. Hopefully they are better than this peice of junk one.

[(F5)]

If they aren't I'll buy you a puppy. But postage is pretty steep from here so I might have to package it separately.

[gasman88]

Got a bunch of different sized mains and pilots. Needles haven't came yet. Here it is running with a 178 main, 40 pilot, stock needle at the leanest with #7 slide. Think i might put the clip down at least 1. It runs great, no lean symptoms or rich symptoms. Smokes while warming up, choke on or off and clears up. I think my air fuel screw is around 1 1/2- 2 turns from seated. Makes me worried to see little smoke. I am running smokeless/asheless amsoil semi synthetic. Low flash point. Something like 175 degrees. I also have mogul 800 to try. Installed new boyesen power Reed's.

I started with a 180 main, 45 pilot, 3rd clip position and the air/ fuel screw was useless. Idle all the way in. It was a dog down low. But as you can see in this video, it's not a dog anymore. Opinions on the profession 2 stroke whispers? Should fatten it up just a little? 42 pilot, put it back on 3rd clip position? Whatever combination i ended up with really opened the bike up. Now i just need a new coolant overflow bottle because i stupidly put a hole in mine with a torch. Not happy about it. https://youtu.be/Z9NdNtlmMOY

[(F5)]

As long as you are running 40:1 with a reputable oil it will be fine. Don't listen to the crazy ratio lunies. You'd run more oil if the bike was higher revving but the 300 isn't a roadrace engine. I used to run motul in my race bikes but it is expensive. (Oh no, not an oil thread. . .run@!!).


You could take the overflow to a bumper repair place and see if it is weldable plastic. Doesn't matter how ugly it looks hidden away so you'd tell them that.

[jerseymike]

I know this is an older thread, but Im an older guy. How do you know what needle you have? where is the # stamping on it? I have no writing on mine. Same thing on the slide.