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  #1  
Old 01-18-2012, 10:36 AM
ucrtwf ucrtwf is offline
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Default 2010 ec300 set up, install review long

Hi Guys, I spent a bunch of time setting up my "new to me" 2010 ec300, I learned a ton from the forum and thought it would be right to give some info back. My apologies for the length. I've got pictures of almost everything, PM me and I can email, or post, either way. Here's the list of stuff I did to the bike over the last week along with my notes. If it can help one guy out with a headache, it would be worth the typing. Snow and cold outside right now, only a start-up in the garage last night as a test.

Background-

I bought the bike a couple months ago from a guy in Oklahoma City, he worked for House of Horsepower, broke his femur, sold his bike. Claimed to have 6 rides on it. Great shape. Me- 6'0 tall, 225lbs, been riding for 35 yrs, rarely race, but try to ride fast in mostly tight woods. Previous ride is a '03 YZ450F. A couple short rides on the GG made me feel cramped, seat/footpeg distance was short. Bars were way too short for me. Bike was bone stock when I got it besides House of Hp revalving and lighter springs.

New Front and Rear springs
- (.48 and 5.4)
From Cannon Racecraft/House of Hp, spoke with Richard- knows his stuff for sure. He agreed on my spring choices, and had the springs to me in a couple days. Rear sag was set to 110mm.

Guts tall-soft seat/seat cover-
From Guts racing- Seems to be good quality, I put additional padding in the very rear section to help prevent tearing through. Both front and rear has VERY little padding. Mid section seems comfy, about an inch taller than stock but thinner in the middle.

Unibiker radiator guards-

From Unibiker- They look fine, directions were lacking details. Right and left aren't marked, and I put 'em on backwards the first time. No big deal, I'm sure they'll help the radiators from abuse, but they still bolt to the bike with the two small screws, I can see 'em getting bent backwards with any frontal impact. Time will tell how they hold up. I like the horizontal braces, the frontal protection is similar to a devol, side protection seems adequate.

Clarke 3.2G tank
-
From Gofasters- Showed up in a couple days. It fits in the frame fine, but between the radiator guards and rad shrouds- things don't line up. I think the stock mounting of the rad shrouds are a little cheesy anyway. I trimmed the right shroud to help it fit better, then ended up zip-tying both top and bottom portions to the rad guard. It's solid, but still not how I would like to do it. I also ground a little off of the radiator guard to make more clearance for the tank, it was touching in one spot.

Hyde skid plate/pipe guard combo-

From Gofasters- I like the concept, but the mounting was a pain in the butt. First I borrowed a couple ideas from the forum- Cutting board as an extra plate on the bottom, this was time consuming, but I'm hoping worth it. Secondly, I attempted wrapping the frame rails in heavy duty radiator hose before putting on the skid plate to help protect the frame rails. No-go when it came time to fitting it up. I ended up taking off the hose so I could bolt it up. I ended up using super long bolts to bolt it up, then replacing the bolts one by one with the correct length (or the bolts were VERY close to the case) in order to bolt it up. Hopefully after a couple heat cycles, a re-mount will be easier. I've also got some wire mesh to put across the front to prevent the "scoop" from filling up with mud/crap. I will say while working on the bike after the install, have your grabber tool/magnet handy. Everything falls in there! Hehehee

Power valve cover-

From Gofasters. As other's mentioned, I'm not sure why they don't give you new bolts, since your original ones don't fit. A trip to the hardware store and it went right on. It does look a little odd, being the only polished aluminum part on the bike, but I'm not out for a show-bike contest.

RB Head mod-

Ron got the parts on Friday, mailed 'em out on Monday. My squish was around 2.8mm, the finish is good, a test ride has yet to prove it out.

RB carb mod-

Looks great, very high quality job. Well documented, great instructions, the only thing that would be the golden icing on the cake is a jetting reccomendation chart. Other than that, I couldn't ask for anything more. I also opted for the finger twist air-screw. I'm sure it will be well worth it. Again, a test ride will tell more.

Renthal Twinwall and 30mm bar risers-

CR high bend from Rocky mountain. Raised the bars up considerably. To the point where I'll be ordering the extra long throttle cable today. The stock one was binding, for now, I had to run it behind the bars to make it work. I've run the twinwalls for years, no bends yet. I cut about 7/8" off each end, putting the components on the bars was a challenge.

Handguards-

D-flex with spoilers from Rocky mountain, Cycra mounts from Gofasters. The universal 1 1/8 mounts took some time to grind a new radius to make 'em fit the Twinwalls, the gap is larger than I would like between the clamps, other than that, everything fit fine.

IMS Pro Footpegs-
Ebay, gave 'em a shot hoping they would be a little lower than stock. They look stout, and look like good traction. Height didn't seem to change much if any.

Trailtech Vector/ alum protector mount-

From Motorcross Giant- took about a week and a half to get here. Speed sensor install was a dream. Magnet already on wheel, sensor screws right into the caliper. Temp sensor also installed without a hitch, into the right radiator hose. I haven't hooked up the bike-power yet, no plug from the bike fit the plug, so I'll have to figure out where to grab it from.
I made a quick mount out of some light weight angle iron, I'll swap out the front handlebar bolts with some hex bolts and that will hold it. Hopefully the computer won't take too much abuse from brush/trees, etc, being out in front like that. Putting it behind the headlight with the twinwall cross bar there would make it hard to see.

Kickstand spring mod-

I took a piece of stainless and relocated the kickstand spring point. It seems to have worked. I can pick the bike up off of the stand without the instant WHACK!! It still comes up at a good rate when nudged, but it's not a surprise, that's what I was shooting for.


General Maint.-

Greased swingarm and linkage. I've come to the conclusion that the Spaniards have smaller finger than the Japanese, and the engineers giggled over wine when they designed the bike. I've worked on many bikes, but this one requires the most thought when assembling/dissembling than any I can remember. Taking one part off to install another, etc. For example, the linkage bolt below the swingarm, the kickstand bracket/roller assy. Not a huge deal, it all went back together fine. 'Just a learning curve I guess.

Test start-

It fired right up, the first thing I could notice is the considerable sound reduction. I'm not sure if this is because of the new pipe o-rings, or the skid plate/pipe combo. I'm guessing a combination of each. Bike ran smoothly, even idled off choke straight out of the box from the RB carb settings. I've got two trips in the works. One in Southern Mo in 2 weeks, and another in TN next month. Ride report to follow.

Thanks again for everyone's help with ideas, thoughts. Those were priceless when setting up the bike.

Tim


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2010 EC300
2003 YZ450F
2006 SSR125
2005 Z1000R
1997 GL1500
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  #2  
Old 01-18-2012, 12:53 PM
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blitz11 blitz11 is offline
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I was hoping for more detail. Just kidding.

Excellent report. Thanks.
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Old 01-18-2012, 01:09 PM
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GMP GMP is offline
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Nice work, lots of setup $$. I see that coming as well.

The answer to the Hyde combo is to engineer a proper mounting system that remains on the frame, either bolt/clamp or weld on.
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Old 01-18-2012, 02:13 PM
ucrtwf ucrtwf is offline
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Good point. I'll work on that, I was hoping things will take a set and be easier next time.
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2010 EC300
2003 YZ450F
2006 SSR125
2005 Z1000R
1997 GL1500
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  #5  
Old 01-18-2012, 03:26 PM
john01 john01 is offline
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Excellent write up and don't worry about going long and in detail; some of us like me need all the details we can get . Thanks for taking the time to do so.
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  #6  
Old 01-18-2012, 10:36 PM
AZRickD AZRickD is offline
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Quote:
My squish was around 2.8mm
That's a modern era record.
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Old 01-18-2012, 10:43 PM
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Jakobi Jakobi is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AZRickD View Post
That's a modern era record.
My 2010 came in the same at 2.8mm with a 1.3mm base gasket stack to time the exh port flush with the top of the piston at bdc.

Even running a S3 head with the highest compression insert I still run with an effective squish of 1.8mm. I've considered dropping the 0.3mm gasket next top end to put squish where I want it but don't really want to change the engine characteristics too much. Honestly I'm pretty happy with the delivery, power, and fuel economy I get with this setup. Its a whole different bike from stock.
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Old 01-19-2012, 07:41 AM
AZRickD AZRickD is offline
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My 05 was 1.9mm. RB shaved it down to about 1.1mm for my 2,000 foot riding elevation and our 91 octane "premium" fuel here in Arizona.
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  #9  
Old 01-21-2012, 10:12 PM
Scramble Champ Scramble Champ is offline
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Nice Write-Up

Well appreciated

SC
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Old 01-21-2012, 11:03 PM
PEB PEB is offline
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Before I had mounts welded to the frame i was taping the front hyde mount to a wire coat hanger so i could position it correctly then pulling the coat hanger out once it was bolted in place.
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